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Mine does the same thing, although I have 72k miles on it. Partly due to the absolutely garbage roads around my house, so I'm replacing the suspension soon. Check tire pressure too, if you bought it brand new they might have left the tires over inflated.

All right, folks. Figured I'd update. After having to jump the truck 3 times in 3 days after it sat overnight I think my battery is done for. Haven't pulled it yet (I'll get a new one tomorrow), but the MFG date on my truck door sticker says 9/19. OEM battery is damn near 6 years old, I think...

I had the same amount of lean as Ready Go, and I put a 1/2" spacer on the driver side. Plenty of threads about it, here's one with a lot of my comments: Rear end leans? Long story short, 1.5" is excessive. I will never be convinced that the lean is normal or ok.

Same. No issues with video.

Don't focus on towing capacity. 1500's are governed by payload. Whatever truck you intend to get check the yellow payload sticker on the door, subtract your weight from that number, subtract 100 pounds for a weight distribution hitch, and then see if you have weight leftover for ~1100 pounds of...

1.5 - 2" spacer will give you roughly -62 to - 74 total offset. You'll have to lose the flaps and probably cut quite a bit out of your pinch weld to make those fit. You're on 32x11" tires right now, moving to 35x12.5 adds 0.75" then another 1.5" farther out with a spacer.

On a 1500 the most important number is your payload, which is 1680lb. You're going to hit your max payload almost every time before hitting max towing capacity or your axle weights. That payload number is your truck completely empty except for fluids (including a full gas tank). You take that...

A lot of people use the FitcamX. I have another vote for Viofo A229 Pro Duo. Great quality picture for both front and rear, easy to set up if you know how to tap a fuse and run wires along the headliner. Have one in both my truck and my wife's Traverse.

Forcing people into different trims or packages for more money. Why give ORP springs for free when you can include them in a package and get people to pay for them? Same reason I couldn't get ventilated seats in my Rebel. I would have gladly paid an extra $1000+ for ventilated seats to be added...

If you want to avoid any cutting you need to stay at or under 3" including the Rebel 1" otherwise you have to drop the differential. So 2" over what you have now. Most coilover/shock kits will say 2-2.2" over Rebel OEM.

The one that goes into the light. Easy enough to check there, and then work backwards if there isn't power.

Should be able to take the connector out of the back of the light and test power at the pins. If your lights are on the plate lights should be on. Unfortunately they don't look cheap as it's the whole unit...

There's a decent amount of 295/60R20 tire selection for the same 11.6" width, but 34" height instead of 35".

It'll still cut down on the dust if done right. It might create higher pressure areas because of smaller gaps, but it reduces the amount of air/dust exchanging. Basically acts as a really thick air filter.

So with just a 2" lift it'll be like @TedN said, you'll have to modify the fender depending on the offset you have. 35's will be crammed in there a bit.

There are giant gaps between the tailgate sides and bed that are going to let dust in regardless of how much you seal the tonneau cover. You can try getting a moving blanket or something to block the sides and bottom of the tailgate.

The size and offset are usually stamped on the inside of the wheel on one of the spokes. Looks like the only offset offered on the 20's is 10mm, and your bolt pattern is 6-139.7 for the Ram. You can fit 35's if you lift 2", since the Sport has the off road package if I remember right. That'll...

Assuming you put LED's in the OEM halogen housings? Halogen housings are not meant for the spread of LED light, which is why you're blinding people. Better off to go back to a brighter halogen or get housings meant for LED lights.

The pre-2021 Rebels came with reservoir Bilstein's. I still have mine on, although I'm replacing them in the next 6-8 months.

AlfaOBD + a bluetooth OBD II module + the security bypass got me set straight. Takes a little getting used to, but once you can navigate the menus (multiple forum posts on how to use it) you can go pretty quick. I had to change my tire circumference multiple times to get my speedometer right...