Search results

Sounds about right. Pretty sure the t-stat is 214°, someone correct me if i am wrong. edit: Should be fully open at 212°

According to Alldata the front caliber bolts are 55 Ft lbs. Front caliber adapter bolts (calls for new bolts) are 59 Ft lbs + 55° turn. Rear caliber bolts are 25 Ft lbs.

Alfa OBD, OBD link MX+ or equivalent and a security gateway by-pass cable. I would start with that.

You are covered by the 80K warranty? A member here replaced the bearings, try searching for the post, it was pretty detailed.

I would disconnect the battery for half an hour, reconnect and wait for everything to boot back up and see it that restores it.

The AAT sensor is connected to the DDM (driver door module) the DDM communicates with the BCM via can-bus. So it is possible that the DDM or the wiring harness/connector is at fault.

And if they resist... https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W86555-Wiper-Removal/dp/B003WZXAXO?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&gQT=1

30 milliamps is the spec. But yes, if he has not replaced the battery, that would be the first thing to try.

Invalid data received from the power steering control module. That could be a number of things. I would take a look at the steering rack connector, remember reading about a contaminated connector?

Can alfaOBD do that?

I have read about that also. Did the pan and 4.5 quarts at 82k miles, the fluid was black, no slippage afterwards. I have a new pan and fluid on hand for the next service, doing it around 100k.

Destructively or did you bake them? not sure if that is even possible.

https://www.amazon.com/ZKTOOL-Electronic-Stethoscope-Diagnostic-Headphones/dp/B09QLXV61Q?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3PQ5KMLNQC0Z5&th=1

Upload a video to you-tube and post a link to it here.

I would start with OBD Link MX+ or equivalent, alfaOBD software, SGW (security gateway) bypass cable from amazon and a subscription to alldataDIY. If that happened to my truck, I would go after the CAN bus to see if it was getting corrupted by some module or CAN-star connector.

Does not take much to do that, tiptoe is the word.

I would check what is happening with the PWM control line feeding the alternator. Here is a basic diagram of the charging system, unfortunately the resolution is not all that good.

Does the connector look like one of these? This is Fakra H, pretty sure it is the type used in the RAM. If so, you can get them from amazon. Amazon.com

Problem with that is that the weld will only hold up for couple years.

The batteries were failing, about 37 bucks per transmitter /stem, no complaints.