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Lol, you can tell I'm 50 years old and need reading glassing typing on my cell phone, I'm going to leave that one unedited.

True, hopefully it's the cooler, which is a much easier less expensive thing to fix, still sucks but way less than head gadget.

He mentions that earlier in the video about the heat, but he clearly summarizes at the end "Just because you increase the viscosity doesn't mean you get better engine protection". You are right, he didn't say higher wear, specifically he said "that an increase in viscosity doesn't equate to...

You have to do a little more listening, at 17m he doesn't say you should jump to a higher viscosity, you forget to mention that which is the whole point of my reply back to you. You made it sound like a slam dunk recommendation that wasn't the point of the video at all. He even states they...

Lol, you beat me to it, but I'm leaving mine up as well. Funny how similar our replies are, I didn't read your comment before posting mine.

Did you watch this video to the end, he doesn't claim that at all. Starts at 17 minutes, he literally states that depends on the results you get from your own data, he literally says don't jump to a higher viscosity because of this automatically without doing your own research. He also...

It isn't a straight count down, it depends on your driving habits, but if you have a 1900 trip coming up, I would get it done now. To stay active with your powertrain warranty, you need to do it within the computer, 10,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first.

If the slider is locked to max, I mean past the stop and you feel it click and hold, it shouldn't loose brightness for any reason, including when it gets dark and the sensor adjust it down. It maybe something else if that's the case, a buggy sensor should have no effect on the interior gauge...

That's interesting, it could be, next time it dims turn the gauge/center screen light slider all the way up to the top past the lock, don't worry it doesn't affect maps lights, see if it holds the brightness if you do that.

They do offer windshield PPF, however they aren't perfect, hard to apply and easy to scratch especially if you use your wipers a lot. Just google Windshield PPF and you should find a few products and installers. I usually avoid windshield hits by staying in the fast lane as long as possible...

I have a Tahoe in that recall range, it's been on 0W-20 since new with well over 100,000 miles now and zero issues, great oil analysis reports and tows a horse trailer for much of it's life. As someone mentioned the 6.4L Hemi still has lifter issues and comes from the factory with 40W. After...

Lol, well that's interesting isn't it, could throw a wrench on a lot of our arguments :) Our Tahoe's 6.2L has over 100,000 miles so far, but shows great oil analysis reports. It's within that year range mentioned, lets see what the dealer puts in it next oil change. My Rebel is due for an...

Considering it's newer paint, and a small defect within a larger panel not too near the edge, I don't think they even have to paint beyond that panel and still get a good match. But definitely work with the dealer first since this should be covered under warranty.

Gotcha, so he noted the paint was thinner in that area, could be an after factory repair. I would talk to the dealer and see if they have any record of it, it doesn't have to be disclosed unless it was over a certain amount, and since they can charge themselves whatever they want, these things...

It could very well be an aftermarket touch-up that happened during delivery or at the dealership. There is a whole cottage industry of body shop repair that fixes vehicles after manufacturer and before sale. That being said, it could also be factory flaw, I have a worse paint defect on my...

I've seen cracks like those on many OEM tires just a couple of years old, they will tell you they are superficial. There are lots of discussions about it online to either make you feel better or **** you off. Honestly not sure if it's true or not.

Yup, really sorry about that man. Tough spot to be, I would consider doing the absolute minimum to fix it and trade the truck in on another vehicle if you don't plan on keeping for the long term. I wouldn't leave someone with a ticking bomb, but do what is needed and cut your losses on that truck.

Sorry to hear that man, especially at just under 40,000 miles.

Hopefully it's one of the lessor issues based on that. The symptoms sound more of an exhaust manifold crack if it's true all the bolts are tight. It could be a failed lifter hydraulic portion, which he covers in the 4 min 15 sec, which matches your symptoms, not too bad if that's the issue.

Gotcha, based on a lot of videos on the subject, it's less likely to be the big lifter issue we all dread. That tends to show symptoms at full operating temperature. Note sure if you seen this video, it's set at the main lifter tick symptom at 13 minutes 24 seconds.