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I don’t remember that part being VIN programmed, as I don’t know if there is electronics in the case, but I could be wrong. Ask around to find out if it is; if not, ebay.

Yes, perfectly normal, and properly designed. Regardless of knob position, if the headlights are off, as shown by the green light in the tach, the dash is full bright to be bright enough for sunlight. You also can see another automatic action of the wipers turning on headlights.

This is normal. The truck thinks it needs full bright for the sunlight.

Where is this configuration, and can it be changed? I would like to see cargo (motos) driving down bumpy roads.

Small price to pay for just keeping it clean and lubed. Good job hunting up the deal.

Ram uses tapered lug nuts, meaning it is lug centered. No rings needed. “If” you somehow found flat faced lug type rims, .3mm is less than the wheel runout tolerance. Mounted 106mm bore on my last truck, no rings needed with OEM lug nuts. Someone be along shortly to say the opposite.

I’ve never used them on big bore wheels since 1990; they’re not necessary.

You would want and be perfectly fine with the “P” tires, but I have seen shops that won’t mount them on trucks with a door sticker calling for C or higher, even with a load rating well above axle rating. About half you can convince to actually look at the numbers to understand, the rest are...

I have these also. Had ice this past week, and mine are a stiffer carcass E range, but I survived. Not a 3 peak tire, but good mileage tradeoff.

$200 seems awfully cheap for that. Is that for a lunchbox locker, or a replacement carrier? RTV a solid rubber grommet in the electric pass thru hole might be the only thing of note. If you never press the dash button, the bcu would probably never know. A simple dash warning would be the result.

Just to round out the info: the rear axle is rated for 4100lbs, divided into two tires is minimum 2050 lbs carrying capacity. You had listed truck empty weights, which aren’t relevant. The max PSI on the tire is not what the truck should use. Follow the sticker on the B pillar - it is sufficient...

I have the Roar pedal, it’s decent. I have the wife, she says not till the warranty expires. I have a hemi and 3.92 axle, so that’s the best. Heck, there’s even a thread on that!😄

Another mile closer to an unlock and reflash outta warranty!

The load range D will also be a stiffer ride than XL, along with the mpg drop. Obviously a half ton wouldn’t come near the limit of the XL, but some people prefer the stiffer sidewall of LT tires when towing.

It is rpm dependent. Mine has a 3.92 axle, so my 8th in T/H is about 60mph.

Fuse blown. No idea how or when. Lights working now, hopefully stays. My fuse drawer is getting quite diverse now.

Where/how is the code displayed?

Just experienced this today myself. Have to start digging tonight.

I would say no at first glance, but you should definitely look at the top inside of the tire clearance to the upper a arm, as well as brake lines on the front. That is where the clearance issues lie. Cables on the front and chains on the rear?

Not much towing, so SL. Snow, slush and rain has to get out, is the tread open on the outer blocks? I chose LTX. Sorry, E rated may not compare.