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I'm probably just too tired tonite to focus; but I read this entire thread, and I'm kind of curious. Which of the springs would you recommend for a little more control while towing, but without raising the rear (too much?)? And it sounds like you also installed shocks in the front if I read that...

I've installed them, but for less than a year at this point. They are better design, stronger but also they use longer studs so they have more room to stretch before snapping. That's the theory, but they can't be worse than stock.

https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/passenger-car-motor-oil?variant=31346427461655

Come over to the dark side 🙂

Funny enough, GM just speced 0w-40 for the 6.2 (related to the recall and how the 6.2 is exploding a little too much lately)

You're definitely pushing the boundary. General rule for TT tongue weight is 13% of GVWR, which means about 975 lbs. Then add another 50 pounds for the WDH and 500 pounds of passengers and you're at max payload with a 30 foot sail. Not my preference, but guys do it all the time. It really...

Mine was in bad shape as well, cleaned it up as best I could and sprayed over it again. Might just need a new pan at some point. I cannot believe Ram has so much trouble with the basics. Like how do you screw up something as straightforward as an oil pan, it's beyond me. This isn't exactly new...

Set your parking brake to come on automatically (uconnect settings). Then when you're switching to park, keep your foot on the brake for a good second or two until you hear the auto park brake finished, then let go of the brakes. This keeps the tension completely off the drive train when parking...

This is the problem with "butt dyno", it can be misleading. A simple viscosity or formula change will not be noticable by the butt!

It might help if you mention what engine you have.

Gas MPG isn't going to be better in an engine that makes more power. MPG aside, I'd wait for the 6.4. Rumours abound about it coming to the 1500, and possibly a 7.0 as well though that one is harder to believe. :)

I believe it does almost everywhere... unfortunately. Only the manual challenger doesn't have it.

The 6.4 comes in two variants, the BGE in the 2500 at 410 hp, and the SRT in the cars/jeep/dodge at 485 hp. The SRT would be an instant hit if they can keep the price reasonable (ie, available in tradesman and bighorn trims where you just need to pay for the engine upgrade and not the ridiculous...

My mechanic is excellent. I do my own oil changes because the oil I put in is far better than what the FCA spec calls for.

It's for the entire 8hpxxx lineup yes, chrysler + bmw + landrover etc.

See screenshot below directly from a ZF bulletin:

Not sure what you're trying to say but it absolutely is true.

MS-6395 is for the 3.6, 5.7 and SO, OP has the HO and as already mentioned above he would "need" MS-A0921. The MS-xxxx is not a spec that matters in any way though. The owners manual wants you to run "resource conserving" oil, which is a fancy way of saying they don't care about your engine...

Of course. That's how I found HPL and why I absolutely ignore almost everything the owners manual says when it comes to oil and fluids. And that's in contrast to your previous statement where you suggested to just trust the mechanic.

Easy there, it was a bad attempt at some humour. But the point is that mechanics don't necessarily know squat about oil, no matter how much you can rely on them to fix your car. Most of them either read the owners manual and dutifully do as told, or even worse just dump in whatever bulk oil...