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Sumo recommended to me in an email that I could trim these progressively, like a cone, to get a softer initial hit, and in your case, more travel. I used to be a gunsmith, shaping butt pads, I'm sure a belt sander would work great on this material.
The video explains that the hellcat pump generates more psi at idle than a truck, charger, etc. I currently use sparingly remote start in MI winters, so idle pressure is important to me. While a small difference and somewhat anecdotal, if it's apart, why not? Now, what percent of police have...
Thinking this thru so I wouldn't be running around like a chicken with it's head cutoff. Preplanning keeps me calm and focused.
I would assume the oil filter catches the lifter debris. Besides the cam and lifters, I would replace the oil pump with a new hellcat pump, and not get too worried to...
I don't know if the tie rods are bad or not, but that looks like pickle fork damage to me. Which is why I never use a fork if I am going to reuse the joint, or at least boot.
I don't believe that you can get away from the FAD. It is in the differential housing, and enables the front half of the 4wd, along with the transfer case. It takes the place of the old fashioned "hubs". All trims, and makes, use FAD now.
You can sell the pedal commander and tune the pedal to what you want. Hemifever, Jay Greene, and Flying Ryan are popular. Find other threads that deal with each’s pros and cons.
Wow, waiting for pics and rub review! I didn't think I could go to 295/70/18, but I'd be interested to hear if you have any rub at all. I off road significantly, with tires at full stuff and steering angle, so might still be leery myself.
In that exact size, I thought only a few General Tire carcasses came as non LT, pick your tread? ATX fit the bill? I probably will go with 20" takeoffs to get into far more choices of non LT tires.
The distance from the cylinder to the cat is what sets the length of time to light off, along with lean tuning, a "regulated" time. Going to long tube both increases the distance and gives more surface area for the gas to cool. Ceramic coating may help with that. Long tubes will never pass a...
Yeah, that's why I wonder if Marvel would help free it up. I don't think you'd need to leave it in there regularly tho. Back a couple pages, someone had the problem once a year; be interesting to see if you could get a long spray can tube, like the ones on a direct injection cleaner can, and try...
Above quoted from the other thread.
From your post, looks like a wire could be pushed in from the filler neck or a blast of air to unseat the check valve? Looks like it's job is to seal up, not anything going down. Also, from your inside pic, out of warranty, saw blade may permanently fix this. 😄
Identical for me, but I didn't change my speedo. It's 2 mph off on mine. Of note, I have the narrower steel wheels, so 275 really is max. I will go with 20" takeoffs next with 275/60/20, which is one size bigger than factory 20".
A page or 2 back, someone mentioned that the rollover valve was molded into the tank, below the filler neck. That is why the whole tank is replaced. HSKR R/T
Also why I said, out of warranty, has anyone punched out, removed, disabled, etc., the valve. Marvel mystery oil down the neck? Any way...
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