Search results

I’ve never used them on big bore wheels since 1990; they’re not necessary.

You would want and be perfectly fine with the “P” tires, but I have seen shops that won’t mount them on trucks with a door sticker calling for C or higher, even with a load rating well above axle rating. About half you can convince to actually look at the numbers to understand, the rest are...

I have these also. Had ice this past week, and mine are a stiffer carcass E range, but I survived. Not a 3 peak tire, but good mileage tradeoff.

$200 seems awfully cheap for that. Is that for a lunchbox locker, or a replacement carrier? RTV a solid rubber grommet in the electric pass thru hole might be the only thing of note. If you never press the dash button, the bcu would probably never know. A simple dash warning would be the result.

Just to round out the info: the rear axle is rated for 4100lbs, divided into two tires is minimum 2050 lbs carrying capacity. You had listed truck empty weights, which aren’t relevant. The max PSI on the tire is not what the truck should use. Follow the sticker on the B pillar - it is sufficient...

I have the Roar pedal, it’s decent. I have the wife, she says not till the warranty expires. I have a hemi and 3.92 axle, so that’s the best. Heck, there’s even a thread on that!😄

Another mile closer to an unlock and reflash outta warranty!

The load range D will also be a stiffer ride than XL, along with the mpg drop. Obviously a half ton wouldn’t come near the limit of the XL, but some people prefer the stiffer sidewall of LT tires when towing.

It is rpm dependent. Mine has a 3.92 axle, so my 8th in T/H is about 60mph.

Fuse blown. No idea how or when. Lights working now, hopefully stays. My fuse drawer is getting quite diverse now.

Where/how is the code displayed?

Just experienced this today myself. Have to start digging tonight.

I would say no at first glance, but you should definitely look at the top inside of the tire clearance to the upper a arm, as well as brake lines on the front. That is where the clearance issues lie. Cables on the front and chains on the rear?

Not much towing, so SL. Snow, slush and rain has to get out, is the tread open on the outer blocks? I chose LTX. Sorry, E rated may not compare.

Have you considered Core4x4 rear control arms and track bar? With urethane or Heim joints? There may be other makers as well.

Funny, I have the lightest sumo springs and feel like the posters above you - slams hard on bumps, can’t drink coffee. Sumo told me to put a big chamfer on them, and I will probably take out the ORP spacer as well. Yes, they will do even less then.

Sorry no pics, maybe next trip. SxS have torn the place to absolute crap. But, I would not vote against their right to use.

Coulda swore we had an off road thread about your daily/weekend adventures? Anyways, went from Higgins Lake to Manton, MI on ORV trails, about 40 miles as the crow flies, and only had to bypass a log and overgrowth for less than 3 miles. Just got back, was a Monday trip with the wife and seen...

You are correct, one of the worst problems for 18” upsizing. I went with michelin ltx, and heavier tire cuts mpg, rides slightly stiffer, but you get used to it. Am probably at 36 psi, although I should go lower. I don’t think my tire light comes on until 29? Adjustable at dealer or tazer, etc...

Be careful what you call torsion bars; that is defined as twisting - see old dodgecars/GM truck front suspension. The WDH uses spring bars. I’ve used these with chains also, which does allow for full weight transfer, and at the same time, adjustable sway control. Agreed, always use WDH when I can.