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Sure, I used these two ground connectors on the passenger side of the truck closest to the cab of the truck.
The one on the left is going to the spare /auxiliary battery.
The one on the right going to the Redarc Isolator.
You have to purchase an aftermarket grill to accomplish this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2019-2021-Dodge-Ram-1500-TRX-Style-LED-Honeycomb-Front-Upper-Hood-Grille-/255060785450?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Here is a post of trucks that have installed...
My DRL's had an inline 15 Amp fuse. That is the reason that I used the F60 Fuse tap, you can step down from 20 Amp to 15 Amp but you cannot step up the amperage
F35 is putting out 10 Amp and F37 is putting out 5 Amp so your DRL's might be dimmer or flicker if they require more amperage.
I used the F60 fuse.
This fuse works with the ignition switch. Most of the fuses have power all of the time. The F60 Fuse : ECM / PCM / ACT Short Running Valve.
Since this is a critical fuse I decided to use a fuse tap so that the tap was clean.
Our trucks use the Micro 2 Fuse
You can pick one...
I had the same issue hauling a Travel Trailer with my truck.
I switched to an E rated tire as you have already suggested that makes a big difference, the next step that I took was to install a set of Timbren Suspension Enhancement System (DR1500DQ) which fixed the sagging issues. The final step...
I wonder where they source the cast-iron for the Mopar Manifolds.
Does anybody know where they are produced? :unsure::unsure:
Like most things nowadays they are probably manufactured by a third party for Mopar.
The DRL lights are a LED strip that are run from a circuit board.
You will probably have to replace the headlight since the headlights are sealed to fix this.
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