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Well this does happen. It's happened to several people on my block alone because of punk kids. Paranoia my ***... dont let Karma hear you, it just might come around and bite you in the *** one day.

So you bought a brand new 2020 so you can drive it through a river deep enough that you would need a snorkle... not to be too judging, but you have some other issues you might need to discuss with a licensed mental professional first! Lol In other words... YOU CRAZY!

If the movement of the active air dam is impeded due to some tweak in its mounting points, it might have taken a bit before it finally stopped working. The power signal being sent to it might cause a short in effect if its stuck somewhere between down and up which could throw a code. Just unplug...

This just shows who has a life and who doesnt. I can appreciate mods to a vehicle, after all I currently have 9. But none of the guys I hang out with could give a rat's *** what I have done to my 2020 model. They just look at it and wish they had it stock to begin with.

My bad... mine says it's in Demo mode. Which just further complicates matters! Ugh!!

Well if you dont count all the "undocumented" aliens, the states population would be considerably less...

Yeh mine just touch the window briefly when power folding them, but end up resting in a non touching position. I am not going to worry about it. As mentioned, covered under warranty and really dont care.

Uconnect said they can not do anything about extending trial. So either I see how long the "trial" lasts with the new radio which could be anywhere from 60 to 90 days or even the original year... O I hose myself, tell Sirius my new radio ID and get the remaining 50 something days left on my...

It has not any issue since being replaced so I imagine the issue with our radios is the over the air update. It's obviously not double checking the data it receives and just installs it regardless of errors or missing information, which ends up with a corrupt install. Just like a computer if...

20.04.19 just like before but instead of the original radio being a CNSC29NFGL, now it's a CNSC29N3GL. Meh... whatever, it works now.

Well I got my new radio installed in less than an hour at my dealer while I waited and low and behold... my radio works and everything is back to normal with one new feature. If the radio cant find a satellite signal, it asks me if I want to stream it over the internet. I assume its using the 4G...

Most of the time within a couple of minutes the radar will show on mine IF it's actually connecting and finding Sirius to begin with. But as everyone else says, the image will disappear and then just the usual blank map. It's done that from day one.

I can confirm clamping off that engine out hose works... I used a radiator hose clamp plier and within 5 minutes it went from 56 degrees to 46 degrees(in the center stack drivers vent) just idling. There most definitely is a blend door issue or a poorly designed airbox that is radiating heat...

I LTC a P365 also and use a P320 .40 cal for bigger "targets". Last year I invested in a SIG Rattler in .300 and it's the best money I have ever spent! Not SIG fanboy but definitely impressed with them for sure.

All this back and forth about the PC vs the Ram air amuses me since I dont notice any throttle lag in my truck. Damn thing jerks instantly as soon as I give it gas but it might be the etorque difference vs the non which I see alot of posters in here have.

Wrong, never worked at BB... in fact only ever worked at one big box store ever, all the rest were actual car audio stores. In fact BB did not even exist when I started installing. But nice try... I was putting car audio in when most of you weren't even born. Back when in order to put speakers...

My truck gets about 50 according to a thermometer out of the drivers center vent at idle and a hair less while driving with both sides set at their lowest temps but not on auto. All stock. But considering that everything is black in my truck inside and out and I have the giant overhead see thru...

Oh and I will mention that I am not going into ohms law, coil design, or anything else not really relative to my original comment... well because why bother. If you cant comprehend the extreme basics then it's a pointless discussion. But I will add this tidbit... concert loud speakers dont have...

I see that you have some knowledge here, but your wrong about speaker wattage, totally. Have you bothered to turn a speaker over before and looked at the mass on the backside of the basket... that's a magnet. Depending on the size of the magnet, will determine how much power is required to move...

I noticed that you focused on the ohms but failed to mention the actual wattage rating differences between the OEM and all the other speakers. Factory speakers are generally rated for far less watts than aftermarket ones. I dont know what our H&K speakers are rated at but as an example most OEM...