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Hmmm... don't know that I looked carefully, but I always get all the lights (bed & cargo) on when I open the tailgate automatically. Haven't had to adjust anything.
Take'm out at the coin-op car wash and get in close for the groves. Then I hit them with a bit of Armor-All before putting them back in. Look brand new... and I'm a bricklayer, boots don't come much dirtier than mine.
As of this date, the Tazer DT is the only way to reconfigure the DRL on both, the Canadian and 'Merican versions.
I bought it, it works and I am content.
I'm sure there is no conspiracy, just random bad luck. My new wheel seems to be perfect so far, also I'm a stone/brick mason and I promise you I put my wheel to task when it comes to dirty hands.
There is only a handful of unlucky owners and I would think eventually they will all get good wheels.
I didn't experience that at all, after everything was tight, the RL UCA had the same overall clearance to the spring or better than completely stock. Curious as to why you had a different outcome.
Good luck to you sir... and to all those who have decided to play russian roulette with their new rides.
A bit of advice if you're going it alone, be very careful with your stock UCA's ball joint, or have options available, it's a monster to get out, no matter how many beers are available.
Hahahaha! He's re-engineered his hood vents and all you can see is the suede headliner... I love it.
Can't wait to order the finished working vents from you @Mechaero19 !
Just a guess, you trade up quite often? Have you ever kept a truck longer than 3 years? It's a waiting game with air ride and cold, 3 to 4 winters until it becomes an issue.
But you are probably also lucky.
There is always the chance we are experiencing different "clunks". I only wanted to point out what the majority have reported. You may, unfortunately have a serious issue if it's that profound of a bang and isn't solved by removing brake pedal pressure during the starting sequence... you should...
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