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I did the regular springs and used two sets of compressor's when I did mine just to be safe.

Their not loud at all, I have the same tire in an 18.

No, he means toyo at3.

What did you not like about their winter performance?

I agree, that is interesting. My apologies Fishwiz.

And the Falkens that come stock on the Rams don't have the 3PMSF rating.

Falkens!

Get out the grinder! Plenty of material there for you to remove some and not be an issue. Towards the motor is where the caliper is the widest. There's rough casting marks there that will need to be ground off to give you clearance.

They'll fit, but more than likely you will have to grind down the front calipers so the wheel weights will clear.

Weight of the truck. Mine are 34.3" off the truck and 33" on the truck.

Whatever length it takes to get the bar level with the ground. You could install the bar first without end links, then push the bar up till it's level with the ground, then measure from center of whichever hole on bar you're going to use to center of hole on frame. Or, add however many inches...

Glad we were able to help you get it sorted out. I would've came home and done the same thing. Jeffjad said he used the stock bolt and hasn't had any issues in 5k miles. I didn't like the slop so I found an easy way to remedy it. Jeffjad, I would turn those endlinks the other way so the threads...

I knew I remember seeing that's the way they are supposed to go from looking at mine last night, I'm not crazy after all.

Let us know how it works out.

From your pics it looks like they'll work on the inside. For the slop issue, I had some S-10 front sway bar end links laying around and the sleeve for those endlinks has the same inside diameter as the factory endlinks. So I cut the sleeve down to 1 3/8 like the sleeves that come with the sway...

No, I haven't installed mine yet...I will tonight. Been working on the slop issue.

Your right, I had them mixed up with the factory end links. Try them on the inside and see if it will work.

You have the endlinks on wrong, their supposed to go on the inside of the bar, not outside. I also have a solution for the slop in the top bolt that I'll post tonight.

That's what I was thinking of doing. Don't really want to drill out those threads for the top bolt in case I want to put it back to stock.

For those that have the lifted version of the hellwig, what are you doing about the top bolt since it's standard in the kit instead of metric? Are you reusing the top bolt even though there's a lot of slop in the eyelet of the bushing and the bolt has no shoulder like the one in the kit.