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I went through comparing liner products and in the end based my decision off of reviews of the installers rather than the liner. Ended up with line-x and am happy with the outcome. I still use a rubber bed mat for protection, softer surface, and slip resistance.
I have a few jacks, but bought this specifically for lifted trucks. Extension on the jack plus higher jack stands for a good price if you won't be using it a ton.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-Ton-Light-Duty-Truck-Jack-and-Jack-Stand-Pair-HD00127/206696699
Like you, I read a lot of threads and had a tough time choosing. I wanted to lift the front, but <2" while improving performance. I settled on the Bilstein 6112 fronts and 5160 rears.
The seller I worked with (HS Tuning) confirmed directly with Bilstein before fulfilling my order. "I do not think so" answers are not confidence inspiring from a seller haha. I like yes or no answers.
There is a left and right side. The only difference between them is the bracket that secures the external reservoir. The brackets are installed mirrored from each other with a flat stickered side facing outwards, and are not easily removed/flipped. I have two 46s installed and they function...
Added some Baja Designs S2 ditch lights and a hidden S8 20" light bar. Wired it all to a Trigger 4 plus and kept the light bar main and amber back light on separate switches. Everything went smoothly, but making the wiring harnesses and routing the wires to hide them as best as I could took...
The fogs turn on when turning left or right to better illuminate the corner. If you tapped in the light bar to them, guessing that is your cause. Not sure if there is a way to turn that feature off.
More positive offset (sucking wheel into the car) you'll likely rub on the steering knuckle/control arm. More negative offset (pushing wheel out) you'll likely to rub on front/rear of wheel well. It's hard to gauge if you will/how much rubbing you'll encounter based off other people's set ups...
I want to say the instructions had something like 35 ft-lbs. I didn't have a torque wrench that went that low and when I was putting it on it felt like it was "tight enough" based on the resistance I felt, but there was definitely more threads to go. This is where you want to use a pass-thru...
It's easier with them compressed because it takes the pressure off top hat, but definitely doable without compressing the spring. I was able to do it with them installed on the truck through the hole in the top shock mount (not ideal, but I didn't want to disassemble everything I had just put...
Nice! Before you install, make sure the nut holding the top hat is tight and fully seated against the shaft. If not, you will get some crazy rattling noises (don't ask me how I know :D). Also, for anyone doing the install (especially if assembling the coilover), get a good pass-thru socket set.
I've also read that OEMs have their own "version" of tires to their specification, such as softer compound rubber, less tread depth, etc. with the goal being smooth ride, fuel economy, and of course cost. This typically comes up when people talk about short life spans of OEM tires vs. the...
They don't make a 6112 for the rear, and the best pairing for the rear is the 5160s. If you won't be going off road at all, I'd go with a cheaper solution up front to achieve a level. I went with the 6112 for performance and to bring up the front a little. I went with clip six on a rebel to...
Definitely post on craigslist/market place if you want more money out of them. I posted my stock duratracs with 1000miles on them for $650 and had 12 people interested within 24 hours. Sold them same day at asking price, and wish I would have posted a higher selling price. Maybe a more...
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