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You got kids? Then here's what you need to buy first. Otherwise they will plug in some electronic game and hijack the truck's audio. Amazon.com

Mix up some soapy water and cover the valve stem. Also remove the valve stem cap. I got my a$$ kicked about 1986 chasing a slow leak that turned out to be a piece of plastic flash depressing the stem when the cap was tightened down. The cap is only to keep dust out, it doesn't seal airtight...

Find the part number then google it. Sometimes you can find stuff on EBay real cheap, sometimes some dealership has a good mail order section.

F54 underdash

Move the fuse for the 12V power outlet to battery, then stick a spade terminal into the now-vacant "run" space. An inline fuse and away you go. Unless you want the power port to be run-only. Then use a piggyback fuse tap directly on the fuse.

It's a 20A fuse, so nominally 240 watts. I suspect that may be more than the wiring and socket can actually take. Most of your aftermarket sockets are only rated for about 10A.

You'll probably get better answers over at Homepage - HD Rams

You haven't lived until you've done a clutch on your back in the driveway and ended up with a 90 weight shampoo.

Good luck with that. I've been trying to figure it out for several years. How does it calculate mpg and range?

It will. That's why I mentioned it early on in this thread as well. The secret is to leave the extender plugged in all the time. The truck stays happy since it looks like the belt is always buckled and you can put the belt on or take it off at will.

I have no idea about capacity. But you are correct -- the front is an open differential and doesn't need additive. The technique is correct, additive then fill 'til it runs out.

So true. I rode in a charter bus a couple weeks ago. We sat high enough that I could look down into semi trucks. 5 PM bumper-to-bumper traffic on the Long Beach Freeway and a guy pulling a container is texting! Probably 10% of the people driving past us were texting.

My driveway is sloped, and I quickly tired of the brakes slamming on when I backed out. I shut that thing off years ago and never miss it. As long as you're in the mood to lose the nonsense features, go buy yourself one of these seatbelt extenders that is nothing more than a buckle and a tab...

The 48V system does charge the 12V system, but the 12V system is what controls it. So if the 12V battery is dead, so are all the various computers - engine, transmission, AC, eTorque, door locks, everything. 2½ years is a little premature for the battery to die, but not unheard of nor especially...

Is it a T harness, with a male and female pair plus a lengthy lead coming off it? If so, it plugs into the rear of the trailer socket.

Compare for yourself

Here ya go.

I think that's normal. When I switch to recirculate, it gets louder. It also seems to blow harder out the vents.

They have to strip off the old weights before they can balance the new tires. I'm sure they'd be happy to scrub the residue off the inside of the wheels for a price, but don't expect them to do it as part of a standard balance.

That distance is based on the average mpg for a very short recent distance and the amount of fuel left. It doesn't matter if you zero everything at a fillup. I've started my truck at the gas station, zeroed everything, sat idling in the driveway waiting for a gap, accelerated hard out of there...