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Is it going into ECO on down grades on the interstate? Should be a light on the dash.

If you pull a wheel, it will have holes/depressions in between the lug holes.

Sorry, the glare made it look like a 5 in the pic. The drop to 4 cylinders takes a couple thousand miles on the new trucks. 13 is definitely low, it’s showing 420 range, do you have the big tank? Any remote starting or extended idle? Still on winter gas?

He’s got 50K on it, I was about to say the same thing MDS doesn’t start working until around then.

That seems low. Did you reset it yourself? The economy gauge screen is probably better to see what’s happening.

I have the AMP one, no issues with 250

I assume no air suspension. The BDS is so expensive since it has the Fox remote reservoirs in it. I believe the rebel wheels are the same offset as the stock 20s, if so you should definitely fit 295/70 RGs with just a level with no spacers with no rub. There’s a sticky in the tire subforum...

Tint went on today. 35% fronts, 20% visor.

Front axle isn’t engaged in 2wd. From the manual: For variable driving conditions, the 4WD AUTO mode can be used. In this mode, the front axle is engaged, but the vehicle’s power is sent to the rear wheels. Four-wheel drive will be automatically engaged when the vehicle senses aloss of...

The recommended backspacing is normally a minimum value, but too “little” backspacing can cause issues with wheel well clearance. backspacing is inner lip to mounting surface.

Truck for sale, ran when parked.

Auto keeps the front axle engaged, no reason for the extra wear when you don’t need it.

How bad is the boat ramp and how aggressive do you want the tires? Have you had any trouble launching with the stock tires?

But, both the spacer and aftermarket wheels in your example have a similar increase to leverage on the bearing compared to stock. I wasn’t saying it’s a big issue (wheel bearing replacement is reasonably cheap and easy). As you mentioned there is a minimum spacer size to prevent cutting.

You won’t remove the offset with the tires. They’ll stick further in and out from stock by 15mm each direction (305-275/2)

You only need the spacers to change the offset/BS. Those wheels already have 5 inch BS.

Probably due to stud length. I know RC has 1/4s that use the stock studs.

OEM black tow “hooks” installed. Look pretty beefy in person. Went black instead of chrome and think I made the right choice. My concern now is since they are actually tow rings, I’d be afraid to use my D-Rings without damaging the bumper. Hopefully I never need them I guess.

Biggest impact is probably wheel bearings since you’re increasing the distance from the bearing to the load application, although I believe with some spacer/wheel combinations you may have to cut down the studs.

You’d need 19 mm of spacer in that case. (3/4”) to get to 0. Just a note, you are balancing two things. You’ll be close to the UCA without a spacer, the further you space out the closer you’ll get to rubbing the spat. Pics of each location from mine.