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I'm happy to help.
It sure sounds like you found the problem!
Other than that issue with mine, I haven't had any problems with the lights or BSM since install.
I did add weather stripping to the inside edge of the light to seal against the metal so water doesn't get driven into the backside of...
Yes. You can even find power folding tow mirrors if you wanted them. They just don't offer them on big horn trim levels from the factory.
Either way, you'll need the door module for both sides and the switch assembly with the mirror control button.
After installing, you'll have to enable the...
I installed china tail lights when I added the BSM to my big horn.
A few of the sockets pushed back into the plug when I made the connection.
I had an error about BSM needing service until I figured out what happened and pushed the sockets into the plug and held them securely while making the...
The properties of OEM-equivalent are the same as OEM, including the acoustic properties. It'll be stamped on the glass.
Wind noise isn't a problem unless the install is botched by mis-aligning the glass or adhesive oozing out somewhere or whatever else can be managed to be screwed up, which can...
If you can find a shop that does quality work, you should be fine.
Regardless of who does the work, I would absolutely tell them to be very careful with the DASM and its bracket when they remove it.
I personally don't think it's necessary to have OEM glass. I had mine replaced a few months ago...
If you have the DASM for the FCW/ACC, do NOT let them loosen the bracket and do NOT let them do a re-calibration. If they don't change the original alignment of the DASM, it most likely won't need to be re-calibrated.
It won't help with precisely aligning your axle, but different bushing materials' properties could change the handling characteristics of it.
In theory, at least.
I read this many times and it really seems like the columns are mis-labeled. Wouldn't you gain more lift at the same clip position with the ORP spings vs. non-ORP? They add 1" alone.
I don't know what that setting amounts to as far as lift, but in my experience, over 3" of level/lift in the front results in a harsh ride. I backed down from 3.5" to 3.0" and the ride was much better.
I think this would apply to any shock/strut on OEM suspension parts. There isn't enough...
That should put you back in the safe zone with a solid 3" total lift in the front.
You'll notice a better ride quality and the CVs will be relieved too.
If you want higher, get some taller tires. After that, you’ll need a lift kit.
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