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Can anyone post some pics up of 35's of 295/55's on stock 22" wheels? Preferably the sport wheels, but the limited will do as well. THanks!

Annoying, not sure how a company like fox forgets to put in mandatory hardware lol. I would just order the studs yourself like another member on here did. Easy enough to pull them through

irwin 1/2” I believe

CV's are fine, ball joint angles are good as i used 3.5" readylift arms.

Are those Clayton springs a full 2” also what spring rate are they? I’d like something a tiny bit less than 2” but don’t want anything softer than stock for towing and hauling purposes.

I removed the front Mopar + ORP front and kept the rear 2” as far as the whole setup cost, I wanted a 3-3.5/2 lift without cutting anything. I had a set of RL arms stashed away so the cost wasn’t too terribly high for me. In regards to the rear track bar, you always always need either a...

What do you mean? You get rid of the front spring in the front as the Fox unit is a whole coilover. The rear i have a 2" on non ORP, so you'd want a 1" block for the rear.

Yes sir!

For anyone doing the work themselves, 100% use this ball joint separator/pitman arm puller. The ram has a longer ball joint shaft than most cars I’ve encountered so a standard one is not deep enough, and a pickle fork will beat the heck out of your boot. This one works well.

Looks great! What total amount of lift did you get?

You got those puppies quick!

Dang that stinks, I was quite pleased with everything in the box. Fit and finish! I’ll have to look at my build date. They must have gotten their crap together

Depending on concavity of your wheel you may not hit dead center of your wheel. My center cap is pushed in like 3-4 inches so I’d be guessing on where dead center is unless I used a level. Measuring from the bottom of the wheel at least allows a dead accurate reference point. th user just needs...

Interesting, mine came with brackets, mounting rings and the top nuts.

the 4” uses a stock strut, so just use a 5100 at the lowest setting.

My truck didn’t have ORP, I had added the front ORP springs to the Mopar lift. In the rear I am running the 2” Mopar lift puck

Here’s two photos of both stock and Mopar UCA articulation. It appears the Mopar UCA has about .5-.6” more ball joint angle. I used the Mopar UCA with the Mopar lift+ ORP spring (3” total lift), and the angles were fine. Not sure if I’d go hardcore off roading, but fine for highway driving.

First, go Vols. Second, the ride with the Mopar was good felt just a little stiffer factory, no real complaints. The main reason for the change is because I tow a lot and the ball joint angles with the Mopar + ORP spring I was potentially asking for some trouble while towing. It got a little...

35” 7/8 from the bottom edge of my wheel with 20’s (probably the most accurate way to measure) 41 3/4” from ground to fender, ridge grapplers with 5k miles, aired to 38 psi. Again this is not a great way to test as everyone’s trucks weigh differently, could be aired differently and have more or...

Sorry, 36” is from the bottom lip of my wheel.