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That's a neat trick with selecting 8th gear. I'll have to try that. Regarding exhaust, I'd say start with just a muffler of your liking and go from there. If you don't mess with resonators it shouldn't get too laud

That's a good way to do it. Something I know is bad while breaking in is putting a load on the engine creating vacuum pressure. This usually happens by giving it too much throttle at lower speeds or in too high a gear. And my break in method never sees full throttle or high rpm. The most I'll go...

I have heard that switching MDS off eliminates the drone. At least usually.

In my other thread I asked about other oil change schedules/routines and am wondering when other people change theirs. Especially the original oil. Sticking to the manuals recommendations isn't always best. I mentioned some times the original oil isn't even meant for driving. Do you guys know...

Does anyone else have specific times they change oil? Especially the initial change. Something else I discovered is some times the original oil isn't even a driving oil but a preservative manufacturers and dealerships use and are suppose to be drained prior to selling the vehicle. But most...

What other methods do you guys use?

That's awesome, Chucky. Glad you like it. That's what I'm going to do too. The full cat back system then add a resonator if I need to.

The heating and cooling of the rings and cylinder over and over with such a quick method helps the rings expand quicker and prevents loss of pressure. As the metal expands with higher heat the cycle allows it to seal better ensuring no loss of pressure and allows the rings and cylinder to kind...

Actually Honda performs this same break in prior to selling the new NSX just so the first owner can take it straight to the track.

I had to bring my '01 2500 to a local dealership in Clovis NM one time and they were horrible to say the least. Everything they said was a lie and everything they claim they did they either never did or did wrong. It took me about 3 months and multiple visits to that dealership and another to...

Some manufacturers do this on a Dyno to break in performance engines before even finishing the build of a new car. They simulate these loads heat cycling to seat the rings then send the finished vehicle out to the world. But most don't so when I buy a new vehicle I do it myself the same way...

I started a new thread about it regarding engine break in. But I'll discuss it here too. No problem. When I first buy a new vehicle or put a new/re built motor in one from those very first couple miles (or less hopefully) I begin my break in method. I do it in 3 phases over the first 300 miles...

After my break in procedure (which I discuss in another thread) I change the oil to get rid of the factory stuff at 300 miles. Then I go 5000 miles with synthetic and check it often. If the oil starts getting too dark or black I would change it earlier. But I stick with my break in method then...

I never follow the oil life meter because it's a pre programmed timer that never sees the actual oil. Sure these modern engines have sensors and things to monitor oil some what but unless your oil is still a very light color at 10000 miles or whatever else it should be changed. If it turns black...

From what I've heard with my experiences resonators help reduce drone and that's why I'm starting with just the muffler. I'll play around with different resonators if I need to.

Yes and all those guidelines are heading the right direction but my method which professional racing engine builders also use is faster and better. I believe in heat cycling with a very specific method and doing this immediately. So by the time you reach 300 miles you can drain all that nasty...

You can never change too early but too late is another mess of discussions...and problems. Some properties of the oil and metals it contacts do make the minerals and particles and what have you attach to and become part of the metal over time. This is good and what it should do. If you change...

I also have Duratracs on my '01 2500 and they are amazing. I got them while in Idaho last winter and only had to drive through 5 or 6 inches of snow but there's always ice beneath it and I never slipped or slid once. Those tires always grip and feel very stable all the time.

I just mentioned this in another thread and Carven is my choice. It's a smaller muffler design that emphasizes your engines natural throatiness. You can remove the resonators if you want it to be a bit loader but as a start I think just replacing the muffler with a Carven will make you very...

I don't have any clips myself yet but have heard several that sound ok and a couple that are amazing. Personally I'll be getting a Carven cat back because I love the natural Hemi sound and those mufflers don't change it but emphasizes your engines natural great sound. Eliminating factory...