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some people find that there are polarity issues, some don’t. Mine matched with and without the harnesses. FYI - CDT offers 2 ohm versions of 6x9 and 6.5, so that would give you some extra power in the doors

just ordered cdt 6.5” midbass for the front doors to replace the CL-69S. one Of my 6x9s has been getting staticy, I think it may have been slightly damaged while stored in the garage. I really wanted the sound integrity 6.5, but didn’t want to drop another $400, just for 70-250hz

I’m not sure of the wattage, but it’s not much. I wouldn’t get anything with RMS of 150-200, and expect it to sound good. The infinity (3032, I think) is a popular choice for lots of people here, and it plays fine with the Stock amp, I think max RMS for that is like 75. If I had to guess...

regardless of what you put in the door, unless you bypass the factory amp, only lows are going to go to those speakers (mid bass). A decent 6x9 or 6.5 would be fine. I currently have those CDTs, but strongly considering changing to 6.5s

The stock speakers suck. But, keep in mind that the lower door speakers are tuned for midbass only in the HK system. So, you won’t get much/any midrange sound from them, only midbass, all the midrange comes from the dash speakers,

the sub was better, IMO. But I was running a 3-way active system, so could really fine tune it, and had it crossed over very low

I just checked my receipt. I have the slim one now (CL-69S), but previously had the CL-69SUB, which is deeper. I put a 1/2” spacer on it, and it fit just fine-probably could have used 1/4” or less

the Helix V8 or v12. Combo DSP/Amp, with what many think is the best software on the market. Then you only need to buy/install one unit

Borla-S installed today.. so far, I LOVE it. Perfect amount of growl, without being too much. Pricey, but I think exactly what I wanted

No worries. I’m not concerned about mine being outside, just fyi. I have sheathing around it to protect it from rocks, etc. i was planning to run speed wire from the stock amp to rear wall, but not 100% two of them will fit in the sills after having it apart, so may end up running those...

I used the NVX 1/0 OFC kit. a few pros i Asked said it could be run through the door sills, but under the cab was the way to go, so that’s how I have it run. I had an installer do it, since I wasn’t comfortable drilling into the body. They brought it up on the passenger side, near the rear...

Ordered a Borla S-type. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited

When I finish my audio install, I’m going to need to spend considerable time tuning the system. Ideally, this should be done with the engine off, and that will obviously run the battery down. Without spending a fortune, what kind of charger would be best? Anything 12v / 20amp that’s a smart...

Does anyone have this chart, filled out with the corresponding speakers for the HK system?

Installed a Gator EFX tonneau. Looks good, easy install

Not for me. I go back and forth between rx sunglasses, and polarized Costas when I wear my contacts, and no concerns. There was a little bit of ”oil slick” for a day or two until it cured, it nothing after that. Either on the windshield or the 5% around the rest

I’ll never go without it again. Night and day difference, esp here in Fl

Nitto recons 35x11.5 Are E rated, but only 60 lbs. had them on my previous truck, and loved them

Your mids and highs should typically be coming from the front only (with exception of using the rear headliner speakers for rear fill). If you have them Coming from the rear door, it will jumble the time alignment and prevent the overall sound from being congruent. When I installed a DSP in my...

check And check. amp/sub install done, got paint correction and ceramic on today. The first time I did paint correction/ceramic (on my 21 Bighorn) it took me most of two days. I washed, decon’d, clayed, polished, and put the coating on in < 7 hours today. Ill try and get a better pic...