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With 5k miles on mine, I get 11.5-12.5 MPG with almost all in town driving.
But even when I do get on the interstate, my overall MPG per tank never gets above 13MPG.
All hand calculated. Don't use the on board computer; it lies.
Absolutely, yes. For a 2" lift or level you better believe you need pucks.
I just wanted to take a little rake out of mine so got the airlinks ($50) and set them to raise the front 3/4". Even 3/4" affected the ride quality a little bit but not enough to spend the $ on pucks.
Of course that is the way to go, but some of us (myself included) liked the idea of a $50 mod that we can do ourselves.
Adding pucks quadruples the price and then on top of that most of us need to pay someone to install them.
So yes, pucks are the ticket, but at a MUCH higher price.
I’m surprised Limited’s are still available to order? They have more chips than any other trim. Maybe they’re focusing their chips on the Limited’s right now because there a certain expectation with that trim.
If a person absolutely needs a new truck then now would be good time to sell their...
This is the worst time in the history of our lifetimes to be wanting a new car/truck. Post pandemic hangover.
Now is the time to tidy-up your current ride and ride out the next 12-18 months.
Look at it as saving your money for a better truck in 2023.
That may be true.
However, I live in Florida, the old people capital of the US, and in the last two years of having LED headlights on my trucks (and making sure they were properly aimed) I can honestly say I have NEVER been flashed by an oncoming driver. This is in an environment with lot's of...
Factories aren’t perfect as ramcares can attest. They may be aimed at bit too high. With good LED’s a sharp cutoff being only slightly high makes a huge difference. Night and day. Literally.
Just try lowering them slightly.
Unless you just want to be ‘that guy’ blinding everyone.
OEM LED headlights almost always have a good clean sharp cutoff. As long as that cutoff is below oncoming drivers eyes they can be very bright and still not blind people.
if you have OEM LED’s and get flashed a lot then you need to lower them.
Did you lower the rear on any of them?
Did you level the front on any of them?
Did you lift any of them?
Do you carry weight in the bed?
Do you tow frequently?
You really shouldn't be getting flashed unless it's a Miata or go kart coming the other way.
A few weeks ago I had MDS kick in on the interstate at 78 MPH. It shocked me at first until I realized the wind was blowing 25-30mph that day and it was a perfect tailwind when it happened.
In your case do both of your trucks have the same rear end gear ratio? Maybe one is 3.92 and one is 3.21?
Use the same method I described on page 1 of this thread. Height doesn't really matter when using this method. With a 6" lift I might say a 3" drop at 25 feet is more appropriate.
When you pull up to the wall as close as possible and mark the top of the brightest part of the beam and then...
I have a 5 mile commute, so almost all of my driving is the Hemi getting up to (but not at) full operating temperature. If I can eeek 12MPG out of a tank I had a good run.
I suppose future tow rigs could be outfitted with a super-high output alternator that in 5 or 10 minutes could get an EV up and running with enough juice to make it to a charging station.
Diesel = Expensive
Electric = Expensive
Pickup Truck = Expensive
Diesel/Electric Pickup Truck = Super Expensive.
Most diesel bros' won't/don't have the cash to pony up for a $70,000 - $100,000+ pickup.
I agree it will be a kickass vehicle, but holy hell they're going to cost a fortune.
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