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I just had the 2" strut installed on the front of my 2021 1500 2WD. It went from about 2 3/4" low in the front to 3/4" high in the front. The shop that installed them said they will "settle" with in a couple of weeks.
Are you guys familiar with "settling"?
My spare is a 245/70r18. I ordered a 20" rim to match my stock rims. It looks like there's room in there. We'll see. If not, I'll have a spare rim if I ever bend/chip one.
My stock tires are 275/55r20. I'm about to mount 275/60r20. My stock 55r20's have less than 2K miles on them and i'll use...
I'm not familiar with the alpha program? I know that if you go from halogen to LED headlights you will need a PWM. Like I said above, the Murimoto headlight assemblies had them built in.
The reason I went with the Morimoto over the OEM LED upgrade is because the Morimoto is all black and I have the night edition Big Horn.
Morimoto XB. Attached pic is with DRL on. Also, brake light OEM LED upgrade.
I bought mine from Retroshop. They came with the PWM modules built in and DRL fuse tap harness. Much better than OEM halogen. The sequential turn signal option is killer.
I did upgrade my tail lights to OEM LED and it's a huge improvement too.
Nothing. It stays the same. They have a number that you can only send texts to.
I'll try and contact them again today. The more I read up on it though, apparently 2021 RAM's have issues with this product.
I'm doing the halogen to LED upgrade on my low/high/fogs. Is the PWM for the low absolutely necessary? I can't fit the GTR assembly and the PWM into that housing.
The Sprint Booster folks said 99.9% of the problems they get calls on are connector related. He said to try again and make certain you get the audible clicks of the connectors seating all the way. So, I did it again and went for a ride. No warning lights and works as advertised. I guess I didn't...
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