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So, where they lying the first time they told you what they were doing, or ignorant? I have like no patience for that sh-t.
Also, the tech has absolutely no say in what’s covered by the warranty. And “alter the warranty”? That is meaningless gibberish - god how I hate dealing with the FCA...
Viscosity is but one characteristic of a lubricant.
I wouldn’t put an ATF in a transfer case unless the OEM specified it was appropriate.
Mobilfluid LT application guide says “Do not use in passenger car automatic transmissions”.
AMSoil datasheet for their multivehicle ATF says “Not for...
I’m ok with those temps, except for the oil. Mine goes into the 250s towing, and I’m working on an oil cooler install, with a 220 deg thermostat.
Towing numbers Look good, but def find time to hit the scales...
The power lead is fused at 30a.
Very unlikely even a well-discharged 100ah Li is going to draw that. Given a discharged Li battery at 11vdc, and a charging circuit at 14.4, you’d be hard pressed to get even a low internal resistance battery to draw 30a.
I replaced my 30a fuse with a circuit...
They’ve since learned to put the fill lower, so you don’t have to stick anything inside (avoiding FOD). Proper filling here is to the lower edge of the fill hole.
That said, the rear diff prob doesn't really need to be at 2.85 gts, hence the factory fill at 2 qts. But I see no harm in filling...
My first reaction was: wow, that’s cool.
After I read all the stuff on their website, and a couple Utubes, I’m not sure anybody other than motorcoach owners should consider this.
Here are a number of additional risk factors introduced.
- serious side loading of the receiver. So much so, they...
This might not be the best, but I’d have them open the diff again, and if they see nothing, have them replace the fluid (on them, 2.5 qts of gear oil, 5 oz of limited slip friction modifier). If the noise goes away, that’s telling.
And if it comes back, try to force them to replace the diff...
If you need it now, that’s one thing. And right now, inventory is low, so prices are high.
But check with Craig at Koons Tyson’s, and Jacob at Clarksville...
Cool. The fill plug seal is less critical than the drain. Will definitely work for a while, so no rush. When using the new sealant, do what you can to remove the silicone from both male and female threads.
... good advice. I’d add one thing, if you’ve got a jumper wire with alligator clips on both sides, connect the engine block or MGU to the battery ground directly. Can’t hurt to see what happen, short term...
Jnav, that says the engine alternator is not charging the battery...
If your’re running the AC full, have the seat heat and rear defroster on, and are holding all four electric window buttons past when the windows stop, maybe you can call that OK...
Typical is:
- 11.4-12.6, engine off. Mine is...
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