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It is a Finnish thing.

Added a recovery strap and soft shackles to my "toolkit" I will most likely never need it but you never know.

Pretty sure the key-fobs need to get programmed to it and as far as I know that is a dealer only or maybe a lock smith.

Steel.

And just in case someone is in for self punishment.. Minimizing EMI from LED Lighting - Case Study - EMC FastPass

EMI.

Disconnected the one on the drivers side. You can get to it without taking anything apart. The F47 is dedicated to the rear defrost so that will disable it also without effecting anything else. The button light gets it input from the BCM AFAIK.

Possibly the cylinder deactivation causing that.

Any codes popping up?

I did that weather seal, ran with it for a while, ended up ordering a new light with the improved gasket, major difference compared to the original.

The factory solder joint had failed on this replacement window that was done under warranty. I repaired it with conductive silver epoxy, then started thinking about uneven temperature distribution possibly causing the window to shatter. Ended up disconnecting the connection for a piece of mind.

Greased up my passenger side when I replaced the bearing hub. And for a future reference, no alignment needed.

IIRC. PCM sends a pulse width modulated field control signal to adjust output voltage, the alternator sense line sends a voltage feedback signal back to the PCM so that it can adjust the voltage as necessary. If the PCM is not receiving a feedback signal, then the output should go high, there...

Pretty sure that you are. What service data are you using?

Unplugged mine.

6. A-pillar pinch weld.

Upload it to you-tube.

Right rear, under the bed. Not my image, credit to whom it is due.

I would chalk that off as normal drive-line noise due to possible binding of the axles, unless it is really noticeable.

Pretty sure I just whacked it with a hammer.