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I have a 2020 Laramie with the Alpine system and it was very easy to run new wire to the door, there's plenty of room in the boot and nothing in the way, it took me 10 minutes to do both front doors with a piece of wire to to guide them through.
A good 6x9 component kit is the best way to go our...
I have mine for almost 2 years and it works fantastic, you can change settings on the fly even wile accelerating, i also got one for my Genesis Coupe at the same time and no issues there either.
I don't think they ever did a Harness for the Alpine system, mine didn't work either but for me wasn't a problem as i used aftermarket amplifiers and all new wiring.
I average 20+mpg driving on county roads 45-50mph, 19 on a mix highway 75mph and that's with the 22's and the throttle controller, it all depends how you drive it, the MDS does save allot of fuel you just have to take advantage of it.
Can't go wrong with the Borla S type, such a clean muscle sound, i had a 07 Mustang GT with Mac Boom tubes it sounded amazing, but the Ram sounds even better.
Multiple amps are always better, installation is a bit more complex but you get better results i suggest a 4 channel for the dash and front doors, (leave the rears alone, after all you seat up front) and a single channel for the subwoofers, behind the rear seat there's plenty of room to install...
They are part of a component set from Diamond audio, (one of the few that fits in there) i also run a DSP for the crossovers and time alignment but not for the rear doors, rear speakers are not important to me, i seat up front lol, maybe in the future ill install some 6/9 midbass i have laying...
Ye3s you can, you can even add one to the factory one, I installed mine behind the back seat what the factory subwoofer location, of course mine is custom made to fit but it's pretty easy, i can delete the front battery now if i want to.
I installed my tweeters on the window trim and 3.5" on the stock location, the image is perfect, the voice comes from the very front of the vehicle you feel like you are in front of a stage, replacing the dash speakers with just tweeters will kill the front stage, you need the mids all the way...
Found the problem, the tailgate sensor is on the passenger side of the tailgate, and the tailgate was not shutting completely on that side, it's like it's twisted, i tried to adjust the pin but i still have to slam it hard to get the sensor to read that the tailgate is shut, but it works now.
I strongly suggest you running all new wires to the dash and doors, it's very easy and you don't have to mess with the factory harness, 16 gauge is plenty as there's only so much speaker you can fit in the front doors and dash, I doubt you can find a 6x9 speaker that can take over 100 watts full...
You only need the CH41, then you can add as you prefer, sub and amp and leave the speakers on the factory amp, sub amp amd front doors and amp and leave the other speakers on the factory amp, or like me I added subwoofers and sub amp and a 4 channel for the front doors and dash, all other...
No, even mine didn't have to be 500A, when the engine I running the alternator is the one providing the current, until the demand is higher than what it can deliver, that's when the battery picks up the slack, so technically with a 220 amp alternator you only need a 300 amp solenoid, I got a 500...
I use an Installbay 500 amp isolator from Amazon, I don't need one as most lithium batteries can work in parallel with the stock battery, the reason for the isolator is the resting voltage of the lithium is 1V higher than the lead acid battery but that is not a big deal, an isolator is not...
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