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My 2 cents, a 5 or 6 channel amp, but run new wires to the dash and put them on their own channels, while running front and rear doors together on the other set of channels.
This allows you to independently adjust crossover point and power of those dash speakers. Good luck!
The driver's side is cake, you can fish straight up to it from down below.
The passenger side on the other hand
There will be swearing! :LOL::LOL::LOL:
The vents and glove box are in the way.
It's possible though - just not easy at all. I recommend heading generally towards the door...
The easiest place to pick up the wires are under the driver's seat - also it is advisable to run your LOC (or DSP/LOC) using the non-processed amplified output from the radio (on the way in to the ANC), not after the ANC has mangled it (tapping at or near the speaker on the output side). Here's...
Lots of room behind the back seat. Of course the universal rule of car audio is, no matter how much room you have, you'll always wish you had just a little more :ROFLMAO:
There is a great deal of space, 5 3/4" at the bottom, and 5 1/4" towards the top... that is with the seat bottoms folded up (the seat back moves closer to the back wall by about an inch when folded up). Plenty of room for amps - I was even able to put a pair of skinny batteries behind the seat...
Here's a picture of what to expect when you pull your seats.
There are metal stand-offs that hold wire clips, etc. - I screwed into those with self-tapping metal screws to hold my amp board, worked well for me.
Thanks, it does the job LOL... I bought 2 boxes of Kilmat, really pleased with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Kilmat-Deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B0751CBXBT
Sundown SA-12 for a long time was what I thought I'd go with - a really solid sub, good price, and relatively shallow! Can't go wrong with that choice.
In the end I went more aggressive, an Fi SSD 12 with a Crescendo 3000.1. No complaints here.
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I definitely recommend the Bluetooth, I did a ton of adjusting and tweaking the first 6 months, it would have been a real pain to plug in a laptop every time. Well worth it in my opinion.
Works great for me and a few other folks on this board have gone the same route - speaker leads come from the head unit and are accessed under the driver seat prior to entering the ANC. I bought the PAC harness for ease of wiring, I recommend it even though it's pricey. I think there's now an...
I wish this was possible! (Ability to mute proximity warning audio while leaving visual alerts)
I figure there must an input wire to the stereo that tells it when to beep that I could interrupt/switch to mute the tone, but haven't looked too far into it.
Sadly that won't work - your head unit puts out amplified power for the speakers, whereas the Alpine head unit outputs a preamplified line signal for the factory amp, they are very different animals.
I'd grab that Dayton DSP and a reasonable 4 channel amp - you will end up with a system that...
I loved my full console right up until I re-entered the dating world. Trying to make a move over the top of that massive center console is more than awkward! :ROFLMAO:
Looks to me like that would work if you cut the black plug off and tap those wires for your LOC or DSP. It's certainly a lot cheaper than the PAC package.
I bypassed the ANC completely but left it powered up just in case it threw codes to have it completely disconnected. Probably unnecessary...
Here, I'll send you a write-up and a bunch of pictures in a DM. I took measurements for someone else on the clearance back there, I'll go find that and send it your way too.
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