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That's quite OK, this stuff is as highly specialized and as individual as musical tastes. Just make sure you get the features you need, either in an Amp + DSP combo, or within the Amp itself (like an active variable crossover, and high-level inputs). Some amps have a bluetooth DSP built-in these...
The original power balance with factory speakers is that the door speakers receive 80% of the power and the dash speakers receive 20%.
By replacing the dash speakers with 4 ohm kickers that balance goes to 66% / 33%, over a 50% increase in power to the dash, and more efficient speakers to boot...
If you're going to go that route and are at all handy, it's pretty easy to up-size from 6x9 to 8" round. :cool:
"There's no replacement for displacement" -Rich
If you are using high-level inputs to go from the Head Unit speaker outs into the amp or a line converter, the HU may shut off because it sees no load.
Some folks have added in-line resistors (if you search the stereo thread for resistor you'll find details), some folks have bought a specialty...
Here's the thread you want for lowering the rear, 16 pages full of info and pics, plus part numbers for lowering springs etc. (y)
https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/lowered-the-rear-2-last-night.6279/page-1
First thing that comes to mind... on a dual voice sub, if one voice is out of phase with the other, you'll get almost no output (i.e. switch the +/- high-level inputs on one channel only to test that theory). But I would think they've tried that.
@brian42
There are metal standoffs (red) on the back of the cab - they are about 3/4" forward from the actual cab wall, plenty of space to run a screw through - this is what I used for a mount. I've also seen folks run brackets down from the car seat strap bolts or the seat mounting bolts (yellow).
Thanks! It's just the 2019 Black edition Big Horn, whatever black metallic that is. I replaced the chrome lugnuts with black ones - funny how an all-black edition still has those chrome lugs. It cleans up nice, but some photo editing helps too! :LOL:
I tagged 5thGenRams in the picture on IG...
1) Just pull your high-level signal on the way in to the ANC not the output side, and you'll be A-OK. A harness makes the job even easier.
2) I'd recommend buying a prefab single sub truck box, it'll be a more solid solution if you don't want to build one or have one built. About 6" to 5" total...
Most folks here go with Infinity or Kickers and are pleased with the results. You have to be conscious of the Front Door to Dash ohm imbalance and also Dash crossover... Otherwise the Dash speakers get overdriven and are too loud / bright.
Also, the caps on the 3.5's I had were 2.2 microfarad, which is a 6db crossover at 9K... But with the HK sytyem you have different speakers (I started with base 6)
4" won't allow the grills to re-seat over the top regardless of trimming underneath. There are also mounting depth and width restrictions, particularly with the passenger side air vents.
I have 4" plate Morels up there, but I cut the plates to 3 5/8"; even so the magnets just barely fit for...
The signal coming from the head unit is different in the Alpine system - it's a low-level & Canbus data signal, vs the high-level (amplified) signal from the base 6 head unit - so a direct swap of ANC for Alpine system's ANC/Amp is not possible.
I've been doing car audio for a long time. Your choices made here were spot on top to bottom.
Car companies charging thousands for premium sound systems have always used speakers that cost them a dollar or two, sometimes less - it's a farce!
tldr: some have done it, but with underwhelming results.
Triple voice coil and super-shallow 10 doesn't have a direct replacement. Using a dual voice and stuffing with polyfill gives the best results.
Here's a relevant thread, there are others out there -...
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