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Here's some back of the napkin... A respectable size (ie large) tv will pull 200-300 watts (1.6-2.4 amps-ish). An inverter serving 300 watts pulls a bit over 25 amps at 12v. I believe our batteries *brand new* are rated at 80 AH / 140 minute reserve capacity (time is usually rated at 25 amps...

The base 6 has 2 ohm front door and 8 ohm dash speakers wired in parallel. This means the doors receive roughly 4 times the power as the dash. In addition, the dash speakers have a very aggressive filter capacitor as well. Many users have replaced the dash speakers with Kicker, Infinity, or...

If I were to go the topper route, I think I'd remove the rear window entirely, I considered going that route early on 🤷🏼‍♂️ Having said that, a blowthrough is inevitable for me personally, but probably a few years down the road. That's not stopping me from drawing up plans though!

You and I both know that the only answer here ultimately is to get the plasma cutter out and do a blowthrough 😄

Your JL 6.5's will fit if you fab up or buy some plates, the actual diameter of those things is barely over 5 1/2"... I carved out the factory 6x9's a bit and mounted 8's and even that didn't take much. Mounting depth to the window is about 3 3/4" with a 3/8" plate. Here are some amp rack pics...

Yep, that's what a lot of folks have done and I think with some success. Not the route I took personally but other folks have. Attached a wiring diagram for the ANC for reference. -Rich

Don't be skeptical - the ANC is made for factory levels and speakers, and will send crazy low tones through anything different. You can keep it hooked up... so long as you disconnect all of the ANC's microphones.

+1 on using a one piece spacer instead of washers or lifts. Also make sure not to downgrade the hardness when you replace them. FYI there are 2 different sizes. I think 13 and 18mm, can't remember the thread size offhand. Recommend just pulling 1 of each and heading to your local hardware store...

The outputs from the head unit on the Base 6 / inputs to the ANC are amplified and as such will work for your sub high-level signal, with the caveat that without resistance across those wires some folks have experienced the head unit muting itself - not an issue if you are tapping, only if you...

There's nothing like a Toslink cable out of the head unit - just high-level outputs straight into the DSP courtesy of the PAC harness for ease of wiring.

Yep - the ohm rating is matched to my amps now instead of the odd stock setup. I also have channel-by-channel control with the DSP I added; parametric EQ and customizable crossover. Love the control & ability to adjust it on my phone.

I bypassed the ANC using the PAC APH-CH01 wiring harness, but left it plugged in / powered) (I didn't want to throw codes, but have since read here that there's nothing wrong with removing it entirely). Used a Dayton DSP to translate the high-level inputs to RCA for the amps, and I like it a lot.

The rubber boots are small and TIGHT. For me, it took a metal fishtape, a lot of electrical tape, and even more swearing. Took me 2 hours of battling to run wire to the 4 doors and it was probably the worst part of the entire install. Good luck!

I really like this install - very unique / looks clean

... YES 😄

I drilled 'em out 😄

You will get no satisfaction and nothing from your dealer, my recommendation is to not waste your time. This is a horrible "feature" of UConnect that I believe is actually a safety issue due to drivers being startled - but there is no fix.

I think your concern is valid, I'd be concerned with overwhelming the eTorque charging system. One of the reasons I didn't want the eTorque, didn't want to put strain (up to 400 amp draw) on a non-traditional electrical system.

I run a 64GB drive with 6770 songs on it - it's considerably slower than when I had 4,000 but they all load. I feel like that's close to the limit though.

I love my Dayton DSP-408 if you're looking at another option