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Or the home-made ones, whatever you used to connect the sensor and the upper control arm.

You’ll also get errors if you’ve adjusted the arms too short. It will keep trying to inflate but never get full enough. Give the sensors a good wiggle- they might be partially connected.

I just ordered another one for $66. It installs with a single torx. Have not installed it because my rubber band setup actually works just fine, lol.

Thanks for the responses, all! Think this gives me enough info to be dangerous!

Has anyone added a block heater to their 5th gen 5.7L? Mine doesn’t have it but I’d like to add it. Searches revealed a bunch of people unable to find theirs behind the air box and one person that heard the heater was always installed, just not the cable. Any experience or part numbers would...

Lol. It’s more like it was over on 12/7 then it just sorta kept on trucking.

I’ll happily watch this swap! The elocker is somewhat of a marketing gimmick. A good limited slip or possibly Detroit locker would get the job done without needing to flip a dash switch. One more question- has anyone tried using a pedal commander to lessen the throttle response off the line...

You might consider changing rubber before getting rid of the elocker. I found the factory rubber to be slip-prone with the 3.92s. A good set of BFGs or Nittos should help. Also, as stated above, traction control should kick in and stop wheel spin- at least it did in my experience (after a little...

A wee little grand Cherokee trackhawk starts at $87k, for even more perspective. :boop:

Is the latest news that the TRX is still going to be sporting 707hp and 37s? What competition? That’s similar to the normal Rebel being competition to the Raptor. It’s just not.

It costs you $26k to go from a base 5.7L challenger ($35k) to a hellcat(($61k). $31k difference on charger. There is little reason to suspect the TRUCK would be less.

These trucks have solid rear axles, so I wouldn’t think there would be anything to align. Maybe someone else knows better though

The best way to figure out the real correction is to get on an interstate and see how far you go according to mile markers compared to 100 miles on your odometer. That’s the actual. Now, I went from 33’s to 37’s, which is 12% bigger. The mile marker test gave me..... 12%. Moral of the story...

Think about it this way: Your truck had tires on it that were a certain size around. The speedo was calibrated so that each of those turns is certain distance. You put on bigger tires, so now you are physically going further with each turn. The computer doesn’t know that, so it’s still...

Ranch Mode: mirrors folded, seatbelt chime deactivated, front and rear sensors off, every piece of glass open! [emoji1783]

One reason the old two tones looked good was because the paint lines were straight and rectangular, just like the truck. It’s going to be tough for straight retro paint lines to look good on these complicated trucks with a bunch of curved lines.

You can get some BORA hub centric spacers to reduce your backspace. I’m running factory rims with 1.25” in the front and 1.5” in the back (the truck has slightly uneven track from the factory, so it evens it out).

If I were guessing, discounts will be more like on raptors than regular F150s. I bet they sell for msrp or possibly dealer markup.

Personally I’d leave off the 4x4 sticker. Gets too busy for my taste.

Unless you’re really aggressive on the throttle, the 3.21 will be fine. Also I’m not sure if there is really a good source to get the front end gearing changed.