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If you’re just wanting smoother ride, literally just put the truck in aero and leave it there.

You can easily do it with links. Either make your own and shorten the rear and lengthen the front ones. Or buy lowering links.

Have you tried covering one light and using a mark on the opposing wall? Otherwise it’s tough to see sometimes.

You should be able to do it with minimal trimming as long as you don’t poke the wheels out with much negative offset

If you want long travel suspension, 37’s are definitely out of the equation. The reason they fit on an air ride truck is the spring rate is stiffer when aired up, so less flex. And thereby less contact.

Bigger tires would sort that right out! Haha. Also wheel liners... they came on my Rebel

They’ll fit but you’ll likely make a little contact on uneven ground. Also need to modify the rear of the front wheel wells. How much contact you get is going to depend on spring rate of your setup. With air, the higher the truck, the harder the springs. On your setup, you’ll likely have...

Same as links (Revel or homemade). If you want a more factory ride and use of all modes, need to install the Daystar spacer.

There’s no option to do that. Your options are custom links (Revel) or having the sensors recalibrated, but those just trick the truck into being higher in normal mode. You can also put it in off-road mode and pull the fuse that controls the air suspension to freeze it in place.

Sounds like a good resolution, but there is a chunk missing from your lower control arm and you haven’t taken a picture?

Would be very curious to see any pics of the chunk removed from the lower arm.

i went with a coin flip on white/red. Both look rad. There happened to be a white one in my config, so white it was.

Get the full set of links, front and back. Then you can raise the rear a smidge if needed. Not sure why revel would say that. The ride height of the truck is solely controlled by the links. Spacers just affect the stiffness of the Springs to get to said height.

Yep, lots of us white on Black around here.

1.25 works great. If I did it again, I’d do 1.25 in back and 1” in front. Might have to grind a little off the studs (non threaded part) on the 1”. 1.25” fits no issue. From the factory, the rear track width is 0.4” narrower so I ran 0.25” wider spacers in back. Can I tell a difference...

One other thing to check is the equipment the shop is running. The first place I went to get aligned couldn’t get their sensors to work on my wheels/tires. They ended up trying to make it work and completely screwed it up. I limped it to the dealer where they did it right. When I say...

I’m not aware of 1/4” hub centric spacers with their own studs. BORA makes them down to about 0.6” thick. If you want 1/4”, it’s going to just be a flat metal spacer. There’s also plenty of stud length for that.

I was wondering when someone would make this! I actually just pulled the existing bracket and drilled a new mounting hole in it, but this is way more professional! Word of warning, this is going to behave similar to the link changes, so it will be 2” higher and really really stiff unless you...

Looks super sharp!