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First off- welcome! Second, if you have a 2019 classic, it’s a 4th gen, not 5th. Last, After 2.5 years, no actual issues with the contact from the arms.

35s won’t work on an over lander without a level. You’d want 1-1.5” hubcentric spacers as well. Also do the mod of the back of the front fender well.

1100 km/ 660miles in 18 months=dead battery. That’s a mile per day, may need a battery tender.

Yep, no issues updating with it installed and active.

I installed my tazer a week ago- so far so good. Just got a message to update my u-connect system- any considerations with the tazer? Do I need to unmarry, update, remarry? Thanks!

1.25” won’t require grinding. Keep it classy

Correct. Like yamie said, it’ll just be really soft/low pressure up front.

The nubs referred to in this thread have nothing to do with driving straight over a bump. Only affect you at max turn. Mine made the noise you’re talking about from a loose sway bar link.

Email sent- I’ve been toying with getting one, so this is great timing.

Lift is in the signature if it shows up on your app- Daystar level in front and homemade air ride links. Maybe 2.5/.5” lift. There’s nothing heavier duty about the rebel, just has more room in the front of the wheel well than yours due to the different front bumper. You’ll likely want to trim...

On weight, the 11.5 37 ridge grapplers are about 100# total per corner on factory 18s. Light enough to handle solo. Not sure how many people have a ton of off-road miles on a truck that came out in 19. With 3.92s, it still gets within 5% of the mileage with 33s. Tows the jeep just fine for...

Do 37s. With a 6” lift, there’s no reason not to. Or get 35s, then spend the next couple years waiting for them to get bald enough to replace with 37s. I mean, you’re starting with $12k being expertly allocated to this project, do it right.

Open the door, look at the plate. That’s what the truck cares about- it will give low pressure warning unless you’re within 5psi of that number. Since you had 18’s, you door plate says 55 front (engine weight) and 45 rear (for empty ride quality).

Or you can get Amp power steps and the optional switch module, which I mounted near the sensor toggles. Or anywhere.

It shouldn’t do it if it’s stock. Turn it all the way to one side and see where the contact point is. If you have a friend move the wheel while you watch, may be easier.

That’s what was causing my front left rattle- loose sway bar link. Good luck!

Agree on the Husky. I trimmed mine to keep from rubbing, but didn’t feel bad about it because they’re so inexpensive.

What options/packages did you get? I guess the real question is: difference in MSRP between your Rebel and TRX?

If you want the softest ride available, it’s going to be air ride without ORG or Rebel. All air ride have the same airbags, so they just increase the pressure for the added height, which adds stiffness.