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After 6 months the rack finally came in

I've been thinking the same. I looked on Amazon and they have yakima racks available I'm not sure why the topper dealer can't seem to get them. He says I'm 3rd on the list of 47 orders

Ordered an a.r.e in October of 2021. Took about 10 weeks they installed it in December without the yakima rack I ordered. I'm still waiting for the rack. It's been about 6 months. The dealer says yakima is on a huge backorder and that they have 47 yakima racks on backorder he's waiting on.

Center of hub to bottom of front fender is 24 1/4 and I've had them on for about a year. Ground to fender is about 40 3/4. This is with a full tank of gas and a topper on the back

People who have only added top hat spacers have had issues with the spring contacting the uca. Not a great idea

I'm running 2.5 inches on a rebel with no problems. 6112s on clip 8 and a 1/2 in spacer. Ucas of course. You should be fine with 2inch level on an org

Did they Do away with the big RAM tailgate letters?

I have a rebel with a 2.5in lift and 35s and it rubs a little even after removing mud flap. Wheels have a big play too not just tires.

Took about 10 weeks and the yakima roof rack is still backordered but worth the wait. A.r.e overland

Bilstein 6112s front coilovers and 5160s in the rear for about 1200$. The 6112s are a bigger shock body so they hold more oil. Great suspension for the price. Definitely get some ucas too.

Any lift increases cv angles unless you are dropping the diff

Method double standard 18x9 -12 literally can't fit a business card between brakes and wheels which made balancing tough for the shops to figure out weight placement.

Any kit that fits a rebel there's no suspension difference between engines. You can't lift a rebel 3 inches without going with a drop bracket kit or else your cv angles will be too steep.

I would say remove the liners. I'm sure they are just on with a cpl screws . There's good access from the front angle I would think going from inside may be a pain specially if having to lay on the ground .

My truck has the rear wheel liners but they only cover the front section of the rear wheel well. I don't have the ones that cover up the entire wheel wells so my rear springs are visible and were easy to access. Just jacked the rear up from the frame or hitch so that the axle doesn't lift and...

I installed mine just by jacking up the rear a bit to uncompress the coils. There's a bead of very sticky glue inside the sleeves so I used soapy water on the inside of sleeves to allow me to slide them into place before they stick. I installed 2 sleeves per spring

The clanking is your rear springs contacting each other. You need to order spring isolators which were on the factory springs you removed.

Topper finally came in

My door jam reads 55 front and 45 rear. I usually run 45-50 front and 40 rear because I find the 35s to ride too stiff at factory psi recommendations