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Today, pi video tuned to match display. Before aspect ratio wad jacked. Now i have a better screen with no over or underscan.
I have a ferrite bead electrical noise filter that helped.
I have a much better cable with less dot crawl.
Pi is now running strictly off 30 ah battery, so no more...
I wouldn't depend on a rebuild titled car if it was free. Literally the only way I would consider a deal along those lines is with a spare weekender type car in the garage that would get me to work while this one is in the shop.
not....
YET!
mwuhahahahahahah. once the display is cleaned up I can start poking at the obd2 interface via bluetooth and see what I can send to handle video in motion. kinda the bottom of my to do since the project is more about in car telemetry computer than entertainment.
if you are into that, the duct tape way is to get a headphone jack video output cable for your phone if it supports that.
The SUPER duct tape way is to go phone to screen mirror on an amazon fire TV stick or apple tv to HDMI to composite video converter. then we can have the pinnacle of 1970's...
My easiest path for cabling has been down into the center console. Can see it, but till i get sorted out, ill need it easy to reach.
This is step 1 of the homebrew express.
Ugly pics attached. That's polarity backwards.
Initially i was told to use 19 and 20. I dunno what those are but its not video!
Actually, we want 22,21. Ignore the red circle. That is where they said 19 and 20 should be. We want 22, 21.
Umm. Black means black. Yellow.. yellow.
Dont scrimp on...
Tonight i got a very ugly but understandable display. Polarity wss backwards.
Now i have to get some electrical noise out of the input and try to get the best possible resolution. Right now it is bad. It could be the 25 year old full size dvd player i am using as a source.
Lets not blame the...
whatever the dealer is doing to charge you is crazy too much.
you would literally better off to get the software (alfaobd), the SGW bypass, the obd reader, and the charging parts yourself than to pay them the once.
at least you would get to keep the software to enable features for next time...
because I don't wanna mess with my backup cam. and I also like challenges. plus feeding though the backup cam line means I would have backup cam guide lines when I brought it up sometimes.
I don't particularly care about the in motion part, but the way it will likely end is with me pushing...
there is LIFE! I got the polarity wrong last night so the display is analog cable pay-per view wacky. A swap of the pins should fix that.
on the upside, I was staring at it for like 10 minutes and am pretty sure I saw a boob.
the "Secure Gate Way" Bypass module allows you to use a conventional obd2 transciver to push codes over the network to the body controller. without the bypass, FCA ****ery locks out the end user from being able to fully access the hardware they own.
The SGW installed by FCA actually restricts...
not well so far. I haven't been able to get a straight answer on what the cabling is for the CHMSL input on the head unit. without that I am going to be hard pressed to get the secondary input working.
surround view recorder dashcam type setup.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSWKP19/?coliid=I1855QZHRAWHFZ&colid=34BEGEPUICOVR&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
stock camera setup only runs when the truck is going, doesn't record anything. I can't have that due to tow mirrors, so this may end up better.
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