Search results

Neat project - I definitely think the tonneau cover market is way overpriced for what some covers are made of - looking to see what you come up with. Looking at your hdpe pieces, if you have issues gluing them together, maybe consider milling the profile with a router/router table? (profile...

Just chiming in here, there's buried threads here, there's no e-brake manual release, no power override etc. (pretty poor engineering move)

Without even watching the video that was going to be my first suggestion; you may have a leak at the firewall coupling from the coolant lines to the heater core or anywhere in the coolant system. Good you have a dealer appt, otherwise I'd say climb underneath and look for coolant leaks...

My good friend (Mopar master mech among other brands) said that's one of the first things he does in motor swaps; if you're under warranty, don't touch it, but afterwards and in his own hellcat swap, he says you have to physically gut the cam system from the motor - I didn't get into details but...

I didn't yet but PlastiDip was the same route I'm planning to go - now I need to see if it's the same on the Driver's side. Makes sense with the grille, on my Rebel, I think I might look for a flat bar that can adhere to the same area at some point (after a lift/stance change)

Thanks for posting pics! Funny you mention the gap on the Pass side - I just noticed that this weekend with the OEM flares on my rebel, little bit of paint showing between the flare and the bumper. Also nice grille! Which one is that / are the clearance lights an add-on?

That's likely it! The air suspension system's hardware change from 2018 to 19+ is more in the compressor / tank system, the lines and fittings are identical (according to a local truck shop I checked with). Good luck with the repair!

Watching this thread as I've dealt with custom air ride in the past and found myself in the plumbing aisle quite a few times. Check with a Fastenal or Semi-Truck suspension parts dealer; also there are a few folks here with service manual subscriptions that can hopefully help narrow down the part

For anyone who's installed their compressor under the bed - have you also installed a tank? Can anyone share photos etc? I have a few tanks lying around, 3 & 5 Gallon, debating whether to install at all or if a reservoir is even needed

It can - lots of experiences out there and it seems everyone experiences sound differently; might be worth looking up the videos posted on youtube rather than here on the boards as well... drone is def a reason I'm not pursuing any muffler changes for now

mMMmmm VOC's hahah, love it and hate that I love it. Malco leather conditioner is my current smell, that's the best scent next to the smell of clean air

I'm generally not a fan of subscriptions but this looks like what OP was thinking about, though it's probably scent infused wood? for $4 for a try, I'd give it a shot, feel free to DM me

That right there ^^ remove the rearmost two resonators - there's good videos here on the board of full straight pipe / no resonator systems, they're loud for sure. Also various cut-out systems that sound great since they bypass everything

You're right - the gauge cluster w/lights off doesn't seem to respond to any dimmer control, I'll have to try something and post back. I got lost in the discussion and was thinking about the Radio Display. when needed, I set that to manual as you noted and then dim it to a suitable level. Did...

Pretty accurate as Fishwiz mentioned; it sounds like Tazer is the way to go for what you're looking for. AlphaOBD turns on/off OEM options, and Tazer does some of that, but things like window control etc are a Tazer thing. (note: that doesn't work with android auto or carplay, just the OEM...

Not sure if this answers the issue, but when needed, I turn off the 'auto dim' function and then manually crank down the interior lighting and if needed, turn the screen off (like if at a drive in)

Just saw this on YouTube and hadn't seen it posted here before - cool look into the making of our trucks!

if anyone with a samsung/android can test it out; I know that the latest S line of phones gives you an approximate "time to full charge", could be an easy way to see if USB-C is higher powered than USB-A. I have magnetic cables for my phone, but they're usb-a only, not sure I even own a C-to-C...

At the latest we're thinking a Christmas release - I'm thoroughly testing it on my personal vehicle because I can't imagine releasing anything with bugs; while I'm at it we've added two features at no cost and plan to make it a simple but robust tool. Thanks for pinging!

I have the Agricover Aluminum Pro which sits atop the bed rails and fastens into the stake pockets - not the most beautiful looking rack but very strong/stable. I'd say that + minor trimming on that rear pocket hole should work for you