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Man! He had me doing a double take - looks like no, can't be used with a cover since it clamps from the inside of the bed https://www.maxxhaul.com/70423 I have the Adarac Aluminum Pro - that is a 'top of the bed rail' install, 8 bolts to remove/install and works with any tri fold cover that...

Well the pawl makes sound when it's resting on the trans' output shaft to lock rotation (wikipedia) - that said, if there's any weight on it, you may hear a clunk if there's sustained weight during disengagement.. so overall, silent yes, unless there's weight on it which will happen depending on...

I listened to your video a few times with headphones and it's hard to tell how much of that is a thump vs metallic clunk, plus the video shake when it happens makes it look very rough. So that said - I'd compare w/ and w/o ebrake on flats and on incline - if the ebrake solves it, then it could...

It's a good indication if you use the ebrake and it doesn't clunk when shifting off Park - that the pawl has weight resting on it - all my auto's do this on the slope of my driveway, so I'm in the habit of pulling the ebrake on those vehicles before shifting from Reverse or Drive (if i nosed in...

just came to say, that looks like a ton of fun also, maybe a diy tow-hook bracket that holds it off to the side/up? I'm also considering a front hitch, punching a hole through the skid and installing the plate at an angle "/" and back it with more aluminum to act as a pseduo skid out front as well

Try engaging your ebrake before going from D>P when you pull into your driveway - then when you shift from P>D w/ebrake engaged (or try the auto engage), it'll help confirm if it's noise from the parking pawl disengaging. I have a decent slope to my driveway and park in reverse, I use auto-park...

It sounds more like what you're looking for is OEM exhaust + Carven Exhaust; what you'd need is something like the diagram below... unless you're looking for Carven + "No Exhaust".. which is what that cutout is above. I've been toying with this idea and might try it when I make time to plug in...

Thanks for posting links! I'd never seen the 'universal' ditch light brackets before, but that's a great option vs the price of hood brackets which then require sandwiching the hood bolts and cost significantly more - one suggestion - get some clearbra material and pop that under the bracket...

Thanks for sharing! I should probably consider it - though I never ran a baseline; which OA company did you use?

Yeah I like the Bully Tie Downs - Nice find! . I opted for the Adarac Aluminum Pro Rack which gives me a rail where I can slide tie downs anywhere. I like those bed Tie Down locations, but I might consider a bedside panel/grid system in the future

Thanks! This Video would explain it best - I could get more pics later as well. It's pretty awesome how modular it is. On/Off is easy as unbolting the uprights from the bedside channel, you can leave the crossbars attached. It's all 14mm Hardware that I can tell plus channel nuts in the rail...

Not today but hadn't seen this posted on 5th Gen yet - I added a pretty nice modular rack by AgriCover - the Aluminum Pro (as always, great deal from Lucas at Truck Alterations) For anyone with a flip up cover, this is likely the only one that works as it's rail mounted, vertical sides to allow...

Well hey, looks like someone makes a heavier duty option already https://www.4x4fabworks.com/products/4x4-fabworks-heavy-duty-upper-bed-tie-downs-for-2019-ram-2500-3500-trucks

Agreed with the F016SX - the odd location behind the sway bar makes the first flow hard to catch and the last wispy flow to drain on the bar... so yeah, add a piece of hose. as for other types of valves (i've owned Fumoto, Fram, Valvomax, and some rando knockoff) - I only suggest Fumoto as it's...

I saw photos from a 2500 where standard dock cleat holes lined up - I've yet to measure those myself, maybe I'll take a look today

Our boat is on a tandem trailer which probably weighs around 5k total with a sometimes-working tongue brake and it tows just fine. You'l be good, do a a local stop and go and feel it out before you hit the road if you can - and post pics and video!!!

https://www.dtcdecode.com/Chrysler/P1DF3 Other FCA forums seem to be pulling the battery cables and allowing the ECU to drain/reset (give your brakes a good smash with the battery cables removed to allow ABS to use up residual power)

Lots of good advice here - I'll just drop my .02 on the tow hooks - I've used 'Flame Proof' ceramic header paint (in a rattlecan) from VHT on steel wheels with great success. Its all in the prep. If you're willing to do it, some thinner based prep, a clean environment, properly heated paint can...

not on my end - never made the time to test the retrofit, but I'm mulling around my v2 'easy install' option. I may see about doing some 3D mockups before summer this year though

No reason you can't - just run ample gauge wiring directly from the battery to the winch. The 48v system runs isolated from the 12v battery (technically 1 way charge to the 48v pack which then sends power to the MGU)