Search results

Planning on replacing my rear springs for reducing squat when loaded, looking a constant rate vs variable rate springs. Does anyone have any experience with either?

Could be broken exhaust manifold studs, does it tick loud on startup but then kind of go away?

Any update on these? I have horse trailer I pull, and would like to compensate for the drop, without the use of air bags

That's where the back up camera comes in handy

Maybe if I have to replace the windshield in the future

I wish I had ACC :cry:

Last month we took a trip from Missouri to Tennessee, before we hit the mountains, I stopped and filled up, checked my mileage, and we got 21 mpg. That was with my wife, 2 kids and our gear. Coming back I calculated the mpg's from the mountains, and we got 19. My normal weekly driving puts me...

Man, that is a lot of miles in a short time

I did my own, but I would have bought this if it was available at the time

I out my own together, just a valve and some hose

Nice find

Mine came stock without a resonator, I added the borla resonator, but swap it it for the straight pipe every now and then

The factory sub is behind the rear passenger seat, you will see a cut out in the carpet, far as I know, there is no replacement, it's a very specific type

Ahh yes, true, I forgot you have the eco diesel, you would need to look on your firewall where the inlet and outlet are. You can clamp either hose.

I haven't had that message since I got rid of my ford, LOL

Doesn't hurt to try

Page 1 of this thread

In your case, I would try the clamp method to see if it makes a difference

Does anyone know if they have a fix for the tailgate open light on the dash?

I've had mine for a year, valve, I wouldn't do the clamp method. Like Scram1500 said, there are vehicles out there that come this way from the factory. Older cars and trucks had heater core shut off valves as well, so it's really nothing new. The problem with our trucks, is without the heater...