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sorry to revive a zombie thread, but... when I follow that link it says "does not fit your 2020 Ram 1500". I was specifically looking at LED headlight bulbs last night and had those saved in confusion.

This part is nonsense, at least for our trucks. Recirc simply means you're taking already conditioned air and blowing it back over the coil; not having recirc on means you're trying to condition 100 degree air for the first time, every time. The only thing that changes is the source of the air...

There's a zillion companies (in the States at least) that make auxiliary fuel tanks that sit in the bed like a truck box. In fact, many or most of them ARE a truck box and just a portion of the truck box is the fuel tank. They're made for diesel but I don't see why they wouldn't work for regular...

That's what I have going right now. Did the clamp thing within days of buying the truck. I'm just looking for something more "permanent" and long term I guess... So frustrating we have to even design this in a brand new vehicle!

um... No, you wouldn't. That's the entire point. We're talking about a solenoid controlled valve to close off the flow to the heater coil.

it'd be great if the aftermarket would make a switch to fit in our factory switch pod that says "MAX A/C" , that we could wire to a solenoid controlled valve, like has been done in previous posts.

I just find it hard to believe no one has hooked up to a large trailer yet, wrecked it, and found out after the fact that their 7 pin didn't activate the trailer brakes and then sue FCA and win.

That's insane to me. As lawsuit happy as this country is, I can't imagine installing a 7 pin and giving people the idea that they actually have SEVEN WORKING PINS but not making it work. I just can't.

I do have the 8.4 NAV, but my remotes do NOT have the remote start button on them. So it sounds like the most cost effective thing to do would be to get the thieving devils to add the remote start, and then I can add the prox parts and the trailer brake controller and then "activate" everything...

two questions: First, can I add OEM remote start as well, and have it all work through Uconnect? Or does that still have to be done by the stealership in order to get the app to recognize and work with it? Second, since I do NOT have remote start, I would need to replace the key/fobik/whatever...

Sorry if there's a better way to do this, but I'm just commenting right now to follow along and not lose this thread. I'm SO mad my truck doesn't have this from the factory.

Is there any other setting? For those of us in the south, the only way to get cool is to roll down your windows for the first 30 seconds to a minute to get the 200 degree cloud out of the cabin, then it’s max AC all the way! I literally never change the thermostat setting in the summer and only...

Maybe this is a dumb question, but for those of us that are still missing the factory brake controller... what happens when we plug a trailer in to the 7 pin trailer connector and hit the brakes? The brake lights come on, but nothing else happens? The trailer brakes don't work at all? Or...?

did you get this resolved? I have the same base 6 speaker system as you and as of right now I'm thoroughly confused as to which way to go on upgrades....

Ok, I've read the entire thread. All of it. Whew! I have one important question that I'm still confused on. On the stock 6 speaker system, do the front door speakers get full range, or are they mid/bass only? I assume the rear door speakers are full range as well; is that correct?