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There are programmers you can buy to do it yourself. The one I bought was around $400, and now I’m told there is another one for about $200, but I have not used it yet to verify.

It is super expensive, that’s why I went with aftermarket without the dimming feature to start. I then found a set of used oem mirror glass with heat, blind spot, and dimming for cheap on eBay, so I pulled the trigger. So much happier this way.

Pretty easy. I took the whole mirror off the truck. Pop the glass out and fish the wires through from the glass to the plugs already there and add the needed connections and reinstall. Need to use Alfa to activate. I took my time and had both done in under 2 hours

Did you turn on the mirrors and not have them hooked up yet? Did you add the 4 wires from under the seat to the CAN connector blocks?

Swapped out aftermarket mirror glass that only had heated and blind spot to oem glass on driver and passenger side with heated, blind spot, and auto dim. Programmed with Alfa and all is good. Have the drivers aftermarket glass if anyone needs it, but broke the passenger one taking it out.

Finally removed the active air dam and lower trim. Programmed off in Alfa and so far no issues

Mine changes by itself too. Usually when I loose my other presets it happens

It was as tight to the hitch as I could make it go, but where the tire rubbed the track bar was where the sleek came from. I couldn’t crank it up any more. I tried moving the tire more left and right and just couldn’t get it to clear

Does it hit the track bar? I tried to put my 35x12.50 bfg at ko2 under there and it went up but rubbed the track bar and was squeaking just by rocking the truck a little. I would love to get the spare out of the bed and back underneath

The wiring is already in the truck. Basically plug in the module and the controller/switch and turn it on in Alfa. Really simple to do

I just realized you said rebel. Might want to reconsider the front and go down to the 2 1/2” as you already have the 1” higher suspension and it’s recommended not to exceed 3 1/2” without a full lift kit

I have the same Motofab kit on my 22 bighorn, but I used mopar lifted upper control arms. No issues here.

CHMSL wire tap for topper check this thread. On the 4th page it shows where to locate the wire without the adapter.

Love the tailpipe flapping around the rear wheel

This works on mine every time it happens, just tired of jumping through hoops to make a feature work that was already actively working before the “update “

Mine started this nonsense again this week as well as lost presets and volume controls all lowered again. WTF are the updates doing other than screwing up what is already set? @RamCares you have responded above, but what is the permanent solution to this? Hate to say it, but my Chevy or my Ford...

So I finally attempted this and it was a fail. BFG 35x12.50 on a 10” wide wheel doesn’t clear. It hits the back of the hitch and I cranked it pretty hard. It when up but with it pressed hard into the hitch and the track bar it squeaked like crazy shift weight in the truck with out even driving...

What happens if you press the start button and then hit the brake? Sounds like when you hit the brake first the remote start is disengaged but on a push to start vehicle it doesn’t shut off with the brake so that might explain the brief shutdown.

The red connector is just a solder on end. The red part unscrews from the metal part and you solder your wires and screw it back on. Really no better than what you have already

That’s what I thought too, but that’s the only time my phone has the wrong mph is when it’s plugged in. After redoing the tire size with Alfa my speedo matches both of my phones, but if I plug one in, the phone that’s plugged in changes to a speed that’s lower than the actual speed. I wish I...