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So true. I rode in a charter bus a couple weeks ago. We sat high enough that I could look down into semi trucks. 5 PM bumper-to-bumper traffic on the Long Beach Freeway and a guy pulling a container is texting! Probably 10% of the people driving past us were texting.
My driveway is sloped, and I quickly tired of the brakes slamming on when I backed out. I shut that thing off years ago and never miss it.
As long as you're in the mood to lose the nonsense features, go buy yourself one of these seatbelt extenders that is nothing more than a buckle and a tab...
The 48V system does charge the 12V system, but the 12V system is what controls it. So if the 12V battery is dead, so are all the various computers - engine, transmission, AC, eTorque, door locks, everything. 2½ years is a little premature for the battery to die, but not unheard of nor especially...
They have to strip off the old weights before they can balance the new tires.
I'm sure they'd be happy to scrub the residue off the inside of the wheels for a price, but don't expect them to do it as part of a standard balance.
That distance is based on the average mpg for a very short recent distance and the amount of fuel left. It doesn't matter if you zero everything at a fillup. I've started my truck at the gas station, zeroed everything, sat idling in the driveway waiting for a gap, accelerated hard out of there...
Yep, check cabin filter first. And see if things are wet.
You can also set things up to blow in recirculate with the filter out and spray Lysol in the filter opening. That stinks, too, but different.
Any one of your modules could be failing and shorting out the CAN BUS. That's the network that ties everything together, engine, trans, ABS, dash, pretty much everything. Short the wires together and nothing will talk to anything else.
If it were my truck, I would first examine all the battery...
Try cleaning the throttle body.
As oil vapors and such build up on the throttle plate, it restricts air flow. The computer adjusts to compensate. You might just be in a spot right between steps. It cracks the throttle, but then it's too fast, so it closes a bit and now it's too low.
Don't...
It probably will only take one drive cycle to adjust the base timing. Which is in general terms, a cold start, warm up to operating temperature, some idling, some steady cruising, and a deceleration. It won't rquire anything special on your part.
I'd look for a cracked, plugged, or pinched line to the MAP sensor for that code.
The pedal position sensor is probably the one that started it all. It's inside, under the dash, on the pedal.
Before you start replacing parts, double check that you didn't leave a ground connection loose on...
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