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2025 speaker issues-driver side distortion

Anyone have any luck with finding anything? I have been texting service mgr and even he is like sounds like RAM doesnt have a fix for it. This is wild, i even feel like when i accelerate a little in lower speeds it gets a little louder then levels out. blows my mind
 
Anyone have any luck with finding anything? I have been texting service mgr and even he is like sounds like RAM doesnt have a fix for it. This is wild, i even feel like when i accelerate a little in lower speeds it gets a little louder then levels out. blows my mind
I would try the ANC by-pass harness.
Its cheap if you’re in the states.

Cost me $70 cdn to have one shipped off ebay.
 
On top of the speaker issues I am having a number of electrical gremlins. The instrument cluster will not fo to the dim settings at night, the radio will randomly start on a FM station, had the front collision sensor randomly for out and couldn't use the cruise control, the map feature in the instrument cluster randomly doesn't work. I am starting to think that this truck will only get worse as it ages. At only 2800 miles and having these issues, what will it look like at 20,000 miles.

Looking at trading it on a 2026 Tundra 1794.
 
On top of the speaker issues I am having a number of electrical gremlins. The instrument cluster will not fo to the dim settings at night, the radio will randomly start on a FM station, had the front collision sensor randomly for out and couldn't use the cruise control, the map feature in the instrument cluster randomly doesn't work. I am starting to think that this truck will only get worse as it ages. At only 2800 miles and having these issues, what will it look like at 20,000 miles.

Looking at trading it on a 2026 Tundra 1794.
it's a shame. tech's don't really get diagnostic time so they fire a parts cannon at the problem and pray it fixes something. it sounds like a ANC issue.
as far as it getting worse i kinda like a good used truck because the first owner get's the bugs worked out. the 2025's have that new can bus system it's bound to have some issues. depending on the lemon law in your state i would take it back to the dealer till i could force a buyback rather than trade it in.

What Qualifies as a "Lemon" in Texas?
  • Substantial Defect:
    The defect must be a significant manufacturing problem that impairs the vehicle's use, value, or safety.

    • Warranty Coverage:
      The defect must be covered by the manufacturer's warranty.
    • Reported to Dealership:
      You must report the defect to an authorized manufacturer dealership within the warranty period.
    • Reasonable Repair Attempts:
      The manufacturer must be given a reasonable number of opportunities to repair the defect:
        • For non-serious safety hazards, this is typically four or more attempts for the same issue.
        • For serious safety hazards, two or more attempts may be enough.
    • Time Limits:
      The defect must persist after these attempts have been made within a specific timeframe:
        • The first two repair attempts should occur within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles of ownership.
        • The final two attempts should occur within the next 12 months or 12,000 miles.
 
it's a shame. tech's don't really get diagnostic time so they fire a parts cannon at the problem and pray it fixes something. it sounds like a ANC issue.
as far as it getting worse i kinda like a good used truck because the first owner get's the bugs worked out. the 2025's have that new can bus system it's bound to have some issues. depending on the lemon law in your state i would take it back to the dealer till i could force a buyback rather than trade it in.

What Qualifies as a "Lemon" in Texas?
  • Substantial Defect:
    The defect must be a significant manufacturing problem that impairs the vehicle's use, value, or safety.

    • Warranty Coverage:
      The defect must be covered by the manufacturer's warranty.
    • Reported to Dealership:
      You must report the defect to an authorized manufacturer dealership within the warranty period.
    • Reasonable Repair Attempts:
      The manufacturer must be given a reasonable number of opportunities to repair the defect:
        • For non-serious safety hazards, this is typically four or more attempts for the same issue.
        • For serious safety hazards, two or more attempts may be enough.
    • Time Limits:
      The defect must persist after these attempts have been made within a specific timeframe:
        • The first two repair attempts should occur within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles of ownership.
        • The final two attempts should occur within the next 12 months or 12,000 miles.
I actually thought about it hard this weekend and will be keeping my Ram. I will continue to work with Ram/Stellantis on the issues and may take the path of a Lemon Law buy back.
 
I've had the door panels off on my last two rams at least 6 times. It's not too hard actually. I've also found that applying a damping materials does quite a bit helping keep rattles and vibrations down. If you go his route, use a quality product.

Dynmat is good. Personally NVX Tri Layer is my favorite.

If you are trouble shooting a rattle with the door panels off, do yourself a favor and put the 4 retainer bolts back into the nuts. Otherwise the nuts will rattle with bass and you'll wonder wtf is going on.

Door vibrations are a pain in the ***.

Maybe a stupid question but make sure you take everything out of the pockets B4 diving I into the doors. More than once I had some rattling and it ended up being keys, a bolt, tool, etc in the pockets.
 
I've had the door panels off on my last two rams at least 6 times. It's not too hard actually. I've also found that applying a damping materials does quite a bit helping keep rattles and vibrations down. If you go his route, use a quality product.

Dynmat is good. Personally NVX Tri Layer is my favorite.

If you are trouble shooting a rattle with the door panels off, do yourself a favor and put the 4 retainer bolts back into the nuts. Otherwise the nuts will rattle with bass and you'll wonder wtf is going on.

Door vibrations are a pain in the ***.

Maybe a stupid question but make sure you take everything out of the pockets B4 diving I into the doors. More than once I had some rattling and it ended up being keys, a bolt, tool, etc in the pockets.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will be tackling the rattling issue once it cools down here in Houston.

The door pockets were empty.

I can actually stop the rattle by just putting the palm of my hand over the grill and applying very little pressure.
 
Well at least you know where it's coming for. Easier to tackle that way. Best of luck. Go slow on the removal. It's not hard, but good to make sure you don't break something up being too gorilla. Once you do 1 or 2 it's easy.
 
i have plastic grills my friend has the hk with metal grills the grill has metal folded over to secure it to the panel it's possible you could tighten the grill up. my alpine system was using the doors for mid woofers they played pretty low that can also contribute to door rattle but a new truck should not have problems
 
Mine still does it. The dealer replaced my speaker and still the same problem.
I suspect is something with the amp or headunit.
At idle with the volume down its giving feedback through that speaker. Its incredibly irritating.
 
Mine still does it. The dealer replaced my speaker and still the same problem.
I suspect is something with the amp or headunit.
At idle with the volume down its giving feedback through that speaker. Its incredibly irritating.
could be alot of things. software issue the ANC mic could be bad. unfortunately diag time is nothing so the dealer will have you bring it in repeatedly and just throw parts at it. all you can do is go back and have them try something else.
cheap easy thing you could try to avoid the aggravation of repeated trips to the dealer is a ANC bypass. just a thought
 
could be alot of things. software issue the ANC mic could be bad. unfortunately diag time is nothing so the dealer will have you bring it in repeatedly and just throw parts at it. all you can do is go back and have them try something else.
cheap easy thing you could try to avoid the aggravation of repeated trips to the dealer is a ANC bypass. just a thought
Do you know if pulling the ANC plug and leaving it unplugged will solve the problem? I tried this last night and it didn't seem to do anything. Here's a video in park so it shouldn't be picking up any road/driving noise.
 
Do you know if pulling the ANC plug and leaving it unplugged will solve the problem? I tried this last night and it didn't seem to do anything. Here's a video in park so it shouldn't be picking up any road/driving noise.
i don't think unplugging it will work the harness has speakers in the plug as well as the mic's. that don't really sound like a anc issue it sounds like a blown speaker.
are you sure they actually replaced the speaker and didn't just tell you they did? some people claim resetting the radio fix's it but that could be temporary.
the HK factory amp is kinda complicated the door's are crossed over and actually used like little sub's/mid bass i assume the kilp is the same. i would also have the bass on the "EQ" flat.
are you the only person driving it? dumb question you don't have a kid driving it cranking up the bass on the radio and blowing your speakers? i don't know how you listen to music but RAM should have a separate level control for the subwoofer but it don't so when ya want more bass and go plus on the radio it adds bass to everything not just the sub. long story short IMO that a bad amp or a blown speaker or a bad amp blowing the speaker.
 
i don't think unplugging it will work the harness has speakers in the plug as well as the mic's. that don't really sound like a anc issue it sounds like a blown speaker.
are you sure they actually replaced the speaker and didn't just tell you they did? some people claim resetting the radio fix's it but that could be temporary.
the HK factory amp is kinda complicated the door's are crossed over and actually used like little sub's/mid bass i assume the kilp is the same. i would also have the bass on the "EQ" flat.
are you the only person driving it? dumb question you don't have a kid driving it cranking up the bass on the radio and blowing your speakers? i don't know how you listen to music but RAM should have a separate level control for the subwoofer but it don't so when ya want more bass and go plus on the radio it adds bass to everything not just the sub. long story short IMO that a bad amp or a blown speaker or a bad amp blowing the speaker.
The dealer claims they replaced it and i can see where took the door panel off...not sure if they actually replaced it. When i left the dealer it still had the same problem and told me they couldn't do anything and to open a case with FCA. I'm taking it back Monday and requesting to be present when the panel is off to look at it myself. No one drives the car but me and i dont have the bass turned up really much.
 
The dealer claims they replaced it and i can see where took the door panel off...not sure if they actually replaced it. When i left the dealer it still had the same problem and told me they couldn't do anything and to open a case with FCA. I'm taking it back Monday and requesting to be present when the panel is off to look at it myself. No one drives the car but me and i dont have the bass turned up really much.
what is your trim level and year model? i predict they will say you can't go out there for insurance reasons. i never asked what system you have if it's a alpine, HK or a kilp? i doubt they had or have a 6x9 in stock for the HK or Kilp they are not a standard 6x9's. you can see where they took it off? a lame tech worked on your truck.
is there another dealer you can goto? that dealer serv department sound's like trash. i would have popped off, REALLY? open a case with FCA? kiss my ***.
 
The dealer claims they replaced it and i can see where took the door panel off...not sure if they actually replaced it. When i left the dealer it still had the same problem and told me they couldn't do anything and to open a case with FCA. I'm taking it back Monday and requesting to be present when the panel is off to look at it myself. No one drives the car but me and i dont have the bass turned up really much.
Here's a video of the speaker feedback at idle at a light with my stereo volume level to 0.

 
what is your trim level and year model? i predict they will say you can't go out there for insurance reasons. i never asked what system you have if it's a alpine, HK or a kilp? i doubt they had or have a 6x9 in stock for the HK or Kilp they are not a standard 6x9's. you can see where they took it off? a lame tech worked on your truck.
is there another dealer you can goto? that dealer serv department sound's like trash. i would have popped off, REALLY? open a case with FCA? kiss my ***.
2025 Tungsten so its a Klips. Yea the little plastic covers that hide the bolts of the panel to the door, they put some little scratches in the plastic so I know the panel did come off and it was there for a week. I'll prob try a new dealer.
 
Here's a video of the speaker feedback at idle at a light with my stereo volume level to 0.


💯 :poop::mad:.
it's cheap you could try this
 
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Update, I disconnected the speakers by unplugging them at the amp...no more droning/feedback on that speaker at idle. I must have a bad amp or the cable running to that speaker is picking up interference somewhere. I'm leaning its the amp.
 
of all the choices they chose basically Panasonic......they were only ever know for boom boxes as far as sound go's.....i guess they put in the lowest bid. i'm told it sound's great when it works. i hope a new dealer will get you straight.
 

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