Travel Trailer towing question, I apologize if it has been asked to many times.

[Rubber Duck]

I attached the door stickers. So I have a 2024 Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4X4 Night Edition with etorque, a class IV hitch receiver, and the tow package as far as it includes the hitch and built in brake controller from what I can tell. I have the standard bridgestone dueler h/l alenza tires on. I have heard everything from I can tow 12,000 to 8,200 pounds. I get more confused when I saw the GVWR of the 2500 at 11,000 and a F350 at 10,000.

So the obvious question is what can I tow in a travel trailer. We rented a Jayco 29 foot trailer with a hitch distribution and anti sway setup. Its dry weight was 4,600 and my truck towed it well, through Arizona and Utah. I averaged 8-11 MPG. We were not impressed with the Jayco, another thread for that I am sure and want a TT with a good reputation, if possible. We found a 30 foot Northwoods Artic Fox with a dry weight of 7,442. we have read good reviews of that brand. But the only question that matters is what can we tow.

I have been told to buy new tires with a stronger ply rating and load index with load rating, and to upgrade my rotors and brakes to Powerstop. This is supposed to help with the handling and towing?

Thank you.

 

[John Kloehr]

If only it was simple. It is not. Your actual limits depends on far more than the number in a brochure.

But you can start with some definitions.

For a travel trailer, a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight would be on the hitch, maximum 15%. For a 5th wheel, 25% of the trailer goes on the pin.

GAWR: One number for each axle. On a scale, with trailer hooked up, the maximum weight allowed on each axle. Both axles together may not exceed GVWR. Never exceed the maximum load on either axle. For a travel trailer, a weight distributing hitch can move some weight from the rear to the front axle (some goes back to the trailer axles). This hitch weighs as much as 100 pounds, it is part of the total vehicle weight. However still can not exceed the tongue weight on the hitch (which is a separate max rating).

GVWR: The weight on a scale for what is on the vehicle axles. This does not include the entire trailer weight, it does include the weight on the hitch.

GCVWR: This is GVWR (sum of both truck axles) plus the rest of the trailer weight (trailer axles). Do not exceed GCVWR.

Marketing claims are a problem in the consumer towing world, these trucks are advertised using weasel words like "up to." Various options can reduce actual capability. For example, Ford makes a great towing guide and it showed the rubber floor mats instead of carpet reduced towing capacity several pounds. The biggest most powerful engine actually had less towing capacity due to its weight. This all said, I have no problem going by the sticker in the door jamb.

 

[silver billet]

I attached the door stickers. So I have a 2024 Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4X4 Night Edition with etorque, a class IV hitch receiver, and the tow package as far as it includes the hitch and built in brake controller from what I can tell. I have the standard bridgestone dueler h/l alenza tires on. I have heard everything from I can tow 12,000 to 8,200 pounds. I get more confused when I saw the GVWR of the 2500 at 11,000 and a F350 at 10,000.

So the obvious question is what can I tow in a travel trailer. We rented a Jayco 29 foot trailer with a hitch distribution and anti sway setup. Its dry weight was 4,600 and my truck towed it well, through Arizona and Utah. I averaged 8-11 MPG. We were not impressed with the Jayco, another thread for that I am sure and want a TT with a good reputation, if possible. We found a 30 foot Northwoods Artic Fox with a dry weight of 7,442. we have read good reviews of that brand. But the only question that matters is what can we tow.

I have been told to buy new tires with a stronger ply rating and load index with load rating, and to upgrade my rotors and brakes to Powerstop. This is supposed to help with the handling and towing?

Thank you.

You don't need to upgrade your brakes. For any half ton I would not exceed 8000 pounds and 30 foot is pushing it. If you're new to towing this might not be a very nice experience, it kind of depends on your comfort level, how often you tow it, where you tow it, and at what speeds.

8200 is generally max for the 3.21, 12k is max for the 3.92. But you won't be able to exceed 8000 by much in any truck because your limit will be payload (GVWR), not GCWR.

 

[John Kloehr]

On tires, the stock tires should be fine and compatible with the door sticker, both for GVWR and the two GAWRs.

Brakes should also be fine. The trailer brakes stop the trailer. Properly set up, the trailer should neither push nor pull on the truck when brakes are applied. They would matter if the trailer brakes fail, but then being mindful and using engine braking by gearing down will help stop the combination without serious problems.

It is more important to be aware of the road and conditions. Go slower at the top of a hill so you don't head downhill with a full head of steam, don't speed. Other points to consider with speed are tires overheating and catastrophic failures like the differential locking up. For the tires, air them up before towing, particularly the rears. Another important element of technique is correcting sway is often most easily managed with the gas pedal. Just pull it back to straight. A light manual touch on the trailer brakes can help this. Applying brakes during sway can make it worse.

For weight distribution, get the right torque wrenches and impact sockets for the few extremely tight bolts. Go through the setup manual and follow it. This will involve a couple hours with the rig on a flat level parking lot nd you will also need a tape measure. You might have to tear it all back down a couple times to add or remove a single washer. Do this setup with the trailer loaded and ready for travel*. Set up properly, the sway control does help some but most of the control comes from proper setup. No porpoising and the trailer comes right back in line after a gust or semi pass.

* With the trailer at home, live out of it for a few days. Clothes, food, pots, pans, and utensils, plastic wrap, baggies, and foil, garbage bags, any tools for every screw and fastener you find, a spare fuse kit... Fill the propane tanks, buy a fresh water hose, a garden hose (for any cleanup when dumping), dump hoses, disposable gloves and a bleach spray bottle.

 

[bigdodge]

I attached the door stickers. So I have a 2024 Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4X4 Night Edition with etorque, a class IV hitch receiver, and the tow package as far as it includes the hitch and built in brake controller from what I can tell. I have the standard bridgestone dueler h/l alenza tires on. I have heard everything from I can tow 12,000 to 8,200 pounds. I get more confused when I saw the GVWR of the 2500 at 11,000 and a F350 at 10,000.

So the obvious question is what can I tow in a travel trailer. We rented a Jayco 29 foot trailer with a hitch distribution and anti sway setup. Its dry weight was 4,600 and my truck towed it well, through Arizona and Utah. I averaged 8-11 MPG. We were not impressed with the Jayco, another thread for that I am sure and want a TT with a good reputation, if possible. We found a 30 foot Northwoods Artic Fox with a dry weight of 7,442. we have read good reviews of that brand. But the only question that matters is what can we tow.

I have been told to buy new tires with a stronger ply rating and load index with load rating, and to upgrade my rotors and brakes to Powerstop. This is supposed to help with the handling and towing?

Thank you.

you also have to weigh your truck with everything you are going to have with you in the truck, people, pets, supplies, etc.

 

[LaxDfns15]

On a 1500 the most important number is your payload, which is 1680lb. You're going to hit your max payload almost every time before hitting max towing capacity or your axle weights. That payload number is your truck completely empty except for fluids (including a full gas tank). You take that payload and subtract anything else you put in it, whether it's passengers, cargo, spare parts, tools, subwoofers, an extra pair of shoes, etc. THEN you have the number you can use for your TT weights. A safe estimate is your TT will have 13% tongue weight.

Easy example: Your payload is 1680. Let's estimate that you, passengers, luggage, tools, etc come out to 680 pounds (it adds up fast). You have 1000 pounds of payload to work with, so subtract 100 for a WDH. 900 / 0.13 = 6,923 pounds for a fully loaded TT. Your dry weight Arctic Fox will put 1000 pounds of payload on your truck using the 13% estimation before putting anything in the TT.

Can the truck handle it? Most likely. Is it good for the truck long term? No. Is it legal? No.

Nothing you add to the truck will increase payload or towing capacity. It'll only make the truck "feel" better when driving.

 

[Rubber Duck]

Thank you for your responses and wisdom. I figured it would be too much to tow.

 

[Rubber Duck]

On tires, the stock tires should be fine and compatible with the door sticker, both for GVWR and the two GAWRs.

Brakes should also be fine. The trailer brakes stop the trailer. Properly set up, the trailer should neither push nor pull on the truck when brakes are applied. They would matter if the trailer brakes fail, but then being mindful and using engine braking by gearing down will help stop the combination without serious problems.

It is more important to be aware of the road and conditions. Go slower at the top of a hill so you don't head downhill with a full head of steam, don't speed. Other points to consider with speed are tires overheating and catastrophic failures like the differential locking up. For the tires, air them up before towing, particularly the rears. Another important element of technique is correcting sway is often most easily managed with the gas pedal. Just pull it back to straight. A light manual touch on the trailer brakes can help this. Applying brakes during sway can make it worse.

For weight distribution, get the right torque wrenches and impact sockets for the few extremely tight bolts. Go through the setup manual and follow it. This will involve a couple hours with the rig on a flat level parking lot nd you will also need a tape measure. You might have to tear it all back down a couple times to add or remove a single washer. Do this setup with the trailer loaded and ready for travel*. Set up properly, the sway control does help some but most of the control comes from proper setup. No porpoising and the trailer comes right back in line after a gust or semi pass.

* With the trailer at home, live out of it for a few days. Clothes, food, pots, pans, and utensils, plastic wrap, baggies, and foil, garbage bags, any tools for every screw and fastener you find, a spare fuse kit... Fill the propane tanks, buy a fresh water hose, a garden hose (for any cleanup when dumping), dump hoses, disposable gloves and a bleach spray bottle.

So I had my trailer brake set at 3.0 then at times 3.5. That is where the person told me to keep it while driving. Where is the reasoning in what percentage you have on the trailer brakes.

 

[John Kloehr]

On a 1500 the most important number is your payload, which is 1680lb. You're going to hit your max payload almost every time before hitting max towing capacity or your axle weights. That payload number is your truck completely empty except for fluids (including a full gas tank). You take that payload and subtract anything else you put in it, whether it's passengers, cargo, spare parts, tools, subwoofers, an extra pair of shoes, etc. THEN you have the number you can use for your TT weights. A safe estimate is your TT will have 13% tongue weight.

Easy example: Your payload is 1680. Let's estimate that you, passengers, luggage, tools, etc come out to 680 pounds (it adds up fast). You have 1000 pounds of payload to work with, so subtract 100 for a WDH. 900 / 0.13 = 6,923 pounds for a fully loaded TT. Your dry weight Arctic Fox will put 1000 pounds of payload on your truck using the 13% estimation before putting anything in the TT.

Can the truck handle it? Most likely. Is it good for the truck long term? No. Is it legal? No.

Nothing you add to the truck will increase payload or towing capacity. It'll only make the truck "feel" better when driving.

At 10% tongue weight, that would be a 9,000 pound trailer. Since anything over about 5,000 pounds requires weight distribution (for reasons*, without digging deep, and without close attention to other possible details)... A 10% tongue weight on the truck is fine.

I'm not ruling out the combo outlined in the OP, just saying it might be OK with proper tuning. My lady tows a nearly 7,000 pound TT with a Ford Ranger. With weight distribution. It is just below the limits for the truck (by 200 pounds) but does it just fine. It also gets more oil changes as this certainly qualifies as heavy use.

* There used to be a forum called RV.net. That forum still exists in name only. Camping World (nothing really negative to say about them) bought the forum. Most of the good people left soon after. No idea where they went. But those people were invaluable to me in learning how to set this stuff up 25 years ago. There must be a great RVer forum out there somewhere.

 

[John Kloehr]

As a followup. Just want to note a TT which is 7,500 pounds dry does not include propane. Depending on brand, it will also not include a battery in the weight(!). And personal possessions, tools, hoses, clothes, food, utensils, other stuff, water, black and gray tanks, all of that does add up.

But aside from weight, the biggest problems regular people run into with travel trailers is speed (enjoy life at 55) and maintenance (truck and trailer tires are good for 4 years without regards to tread depth, keep the tires inflated, change engine oil and all other fluids twice as often as the manual calls for). Adjust the trailer brakes as needed, and learn to do all this yourself. The bigger problem to watch for is arguably the RV salesperson who will say your truck can pull anything on the lot, you can't. But there is no reason you can not pull near the limits, you can. You just need to understand what those limits are.

 

[Ramboy13]

On a 1500 the most important number is your payload, which is 1680lb. You're going to hit your max payload almost every time before hitting max towing capacity or your axle weights. That payload number is your truck completely empty except for fluids (including a full gas tank). You take that payload and subtract anything else you put in it, whether it's passengers, cargo, spare parts, tools, subwoofers, an extra pair of shoes, etc. THEN you have the number you can use for your TT weights. A safe estimate is your TT will have 13% tongue weight.

Easy example: Your payload is 1680. Let's estimate that you, passengers, luggage, tools, etc come out to 680 pounds (it adds up fast). You have 1000 pounds of payload to work with, so subtract 100 for a WDH. 900 / 0.13 = 6,923 pounds for a fully loaded TT. Your dry weight Arctic Fox will put 1000 pounds of payload on your truck using the 13% estimation before putting anything in the TT.

Can the truck handle it? Most likely. Is it good for the truck long term? No. Is it legal? No.

Nothing you add to the truck will increase payload or towing capacity. It'll only make the truck "feel" better when driving.

This. This all day long. I was going to say the same thing with similar example as I started to read through this thread. Laxdfns15 nailed it. The way these 1/2 tons are built, the payload will almost always be the limiting factor. In my case, I can barely tow a John Deere lawn tractor on a small Carry-On trailer (slight exaggeration…. But not by much).
When you get to the bigger TTs, you really need to think about HD trucks.

 

[Gren71]

As far as upgrades to handling and towing.

Hellwig rear sway bar

Billstein 5100 shocks

Cargomaxx 351-893 HD or XHD progressive rear springs

Timber Grove air bag suspension upgrade

E rated “10 ply” tires

A HIGH QUALITY wdh is worth the $$

Id avoid the hefty bump stop upgrades. I read they caused frame damage..true or not it scared me away from them. Do what you can afford.

I have a similar payload to yours, 1,760lbs.

Towing a 30ft Bullet 250BHS

I haven’t scaled wo weighed my tt in a while but i know for sure my tongue is HEAVY for the trailer…base its 715lbs before all my stuff…which is 13% of base weight. It sagged the heck out of the stock rear. Now loaded im willing to be my tongue is in the ballpark of 825lbs-850lbs. I have the cargomaxx springs in and they’re a life saver as far as im concerned.

With the whole family, dog, snacks, fire wood, ect, im within 100lbs-200lbs of my payload whenever I travel.

Leaving the campground


After a couple hours of driving where the suspension settles in and sits with about 1/2” of rake. Tows good.

 

[silver billet]

So I had my trailer brake set at 3.0 then at times 3.5. That is where the person told me to keep it while driving. Where is the reasoning in what percentage you have on the trailer brakes.

Basically you want to feel like the trailer is stopping its own weight, it shouldn't feel like the truck is working extra hard to stop now that a trailer is attached, but it also should definitely not feel that the truck is stopping quicker with a trailer attached. Some guys will find some dry parking lot or section of road, and then try to stop normally. If the trailer doesn't skid at the end while stopping, then bump it up and up until the trailer starts skidding tires. Then bump it back down 1. With this approach you would have to adjust for rainy conditions.

With your jayco I would probably have that set around 5 to 6 in my truck with the light trailer setting.

 

[Rubber Duck]

Basically you want to feel like the trailer is stopping its own weight, it shouldn't feel like the truck is working extra hard to stop now that a trailer is attached, but it also should definitely not feel that the truck is stopping quicker with a trailer attached. Some guys will find some dry parking lot or section of road, and then try to stop normally. If the trailer doesn't skid at the end while stopping, then bump it up and up until the trailer starts skidding tires. Then bump it back down 1. With this approach you would have to adjust for rainy conditions.

With your jayco I would probably have that set around 5 to 6 in my truck with the light trailer setting.

There is a light trailer setting?

 

[Rubber Duck]

As a followup. Just want to note a TT which is 7,500 pounds dry does not include propane. Depending on brand, it will also not include a battery in the weight(!). And personal possessions, tools, hoses, clothes, food, utensils, other stuff, water, black and gray tanks, all of that does add up.

But aside from weight, the biggest problems regular people run into with travel trailers is speed (enjoy life at 55) and maintenance (truck and trailer tires are good for 4 years without regards to tread depth, keep the tires inflated, change engine oil and all other fluids twice as often as the manual calls for). Adjust the trailer brakes as needed, and learn to do all this yourself. The bigger problem to watch for is arguably the RV salesperson who will say your truck can pull anything on the lot, you can't. But there is no reason you can not pull near the limits, you can. You just need to understand what those limits are.

Well, when we got back the truck had a shudder in the rear axle. I took it to the dealer and the service technician found a TSB stating that 5th Gen Rams, if they start to shudder after towing need the differential fluid changed to stop the shudder. They changed the fluid and the shudder stopped. Which sucks because that isn't a lot of time between changes. I asked the technician if they used the same quality fluid, and after a pause he said yes. I change my own oil and use the recommended Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 oil filter, I change it every 5,000. Yes the RV salesman from camping world was showing my 30+ foot trailers up to 12,000 pounds. Saying my truck could tow them.

Yes, I will have to slow down. I was traveling between 60-70. I did increase the air pressure in my tires above the door sticker recommendation, but below the max PSI listed on the tire.

 

[Rubber Duck]

As far as upgrades to handling and towing.

Hellwig rear sway bar

Billstein 5100 shocks

Cargomaxx 351-893 HD or XHD progressive rear springs

Timber Grove air bag suspension upgrade

E rated “10 ply” tires

A HIGH QUALITY wdh is worth the $$

Id avoid the hefty bump stop upgrades. I read they caused frame damage..true or not it scared me away from them. Do what you can afford.

I have a similar payload to yours, 1,760lbs.

Towing a 30ft Bullet 250BHS

I haven’t scaled wo weighed my tt in a while but i know for sure my tongue is HEAVY for the trailer…base its 715lbs before all my stuff…which is 13% of base weight. It sagged the heck out of the stock rear. Now loaded im willing to be my tongue is in the ballpark of 825lbs-850lbs. I have the cargomaxx springs in and they’re a life saver as far as im concerned.

With the whole family, dog, snacks, fire wood, ect, im within 100lbs-200lbs of my payload whenever I travel.

Leaving the campground
View attachment 202919

After a couple hours of driving where the suspension settles in and sits with about 1/2” of rake. Tows good.
View attachment 202920

 

[silver billet]

There is a light trailer setting?

Yes, there are 3 different settings though I forget how to access, probably in uconnect somewhere. Something I setup once and never touch, whereas the gain can/should be adjusted according to road conditions. These 3 different settings affect how fast the gain is ramped up IIRC.

Well, when we got back the truck had a shudder in the rear axle. I took it to the dealer and the service technician found a TSB stating that 5th Gen Rams, if they start to shudder after towing need the differential fluid changed to stop the shudder. They changed the fluid and the shudder stopped. Which sucks because that isn't a lot of time between changes. I asked the technician if they used the same quality fluid, and after a pause he said yes. I change my own oil and use the recommended Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 oil filter, I change it every 5,000. Yes the RV salesman from camping world was showing my 30+ foot trailers up to 12,000 pounds. Saying my truck could tow them.

Yes, I will have to slow down. I was traveling between 60-70. I did increase the air pressure in my tires above the door sticker recommendation, but below the max PSI listed on the tire.

The diff fluid is not the same as motor oil (PUP is motor oil). I started having a groaning noise around 60k miles from my rear diff when turning sharp corners, replaced the factory fluid with HPL and it went away. 60k miles sounds about right if you're doing light/moderate towing, engine oil at 5000 miles is a great thing to do.

 

[Rubber Duck]

Yes, there are 3 different settings though I forget how to access, probably in uconnect somewhere. Something I setup once and never touch, whereas the gain can/should be adjusted according to road conditions. These 3 different settings affect how fast the gain is ramped up IIRC.



The diff fluid is not the same as motor oil (PUP is motor oil). I started having a groaning noise around 60k miles from my rear diff when turning sharp corners, replaced the factory fluid with HPL and it went away. 60k miles sounds about right if you're doing light/moderate towing, engine oil at 5000 miles is a great thing to do.

Yeah the dealership put the same brand of diff fluid back in that the TSB said would be bad. Only 23,000 miles and they changed out the diff fluid. I asked about Amsoil diff fluid and the dealership said it was ok to use, but they didn't sell it there.