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2022 Ram 1500 no tow package.

Arthur W

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I recently purchased a 2022 Ram 1500 laramie with the 5.7 hemi. The truck has the class 4 hitch but no brake controller. I also noticed it has 4 ply tires and 3.21 gear ratio. We are looking at buying a camper to travel with for vacations. The camper Is 28' weighing in around 7500.lbs. I can add the brake controller and put 10 ply tires on and get a WDH. My question is will the 3.21 gears be okay for towing this camper? And is there anything else I should look for before I buy the camper?
 
I recently purchased a 2022 Ram 1500 laramie with the 5.7 hemi. The truck has the class 4 hitch but no brake controller. I also noticed it has 4 ply tires and 3.21 gear ratio. We are looking at buying a camper to travel with for vacations. The camper Is 28' weighing in around 7500.lbs. I can add the brake controller and put 10 ply tires on and get a WDH. My question is will the 3.21 gears be okay for towing this camper? And is there anything else I should look for before I buy the camper?



Possibly… whats the dry weight listed of said camper. 28” is pushing it with a 1500 but can be done if its within both the tow and payload rating of your truck and depends a lot on how far and how often you can plan on traveling with said camper. Look at your door jam sticker and figure out what payload and tow rating you have even with 3.21.. 3.92 bumps that tow number up quite a but but payload will probably be the issue.


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That’s a heavy trailer, we just bought a 26’ it’s actually 31’9” from bumper to hitch but weighs in at 5795# dry
 
There's a towing thread which ma help you.

It's too bad you didn't have all the extra goodies like the 33 gallon tank, tow package and 3.92's yet the truck can pull it. The 8 speed does well, lock it out of the 2 OD gears.

Just stay out of the mountains if possible, change your tires to AT and go slower while towing. You don't need to try and keep up with the diesel boys...
 
That’s a heavy trailer, we just bought a 26’ it’s actually 31’9” from bumper to hitch but weighs in at 5795# dry
I did some more research and the dry weight of the trailer is around 6300 lbs
 
Possibly… whats the dry weight listed of said camper. 28” is pushing it with a 1500 but can be done if its within both the tow and payload rating of your truck and depends a lot on how far and how often you can plan on traveling with said camper. Look at your door jam sticker and figure out what payload and tow rating you have even with 3.21.. 3.92 bumps that tow number up quite a but but payload will probably be the issue.


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I did some more research and the dry weight of the trailer is around 6300 lbs
That’s better, like other have stated you will likely hit payload before you’re able to pull it. Check the hitch weight of the TT and know your max payload.
 
After doing some more research. Dry weight of trailer is around 6300 lbs. Payload on my truck is 1499. If I figured it right, it should be OK. I'm wandering about the cooling system and suspension. We are starting out within a few hours of home. Then we would like to pull a lot farther . But no mountain terrain but may be hilly.
 
Those numbers are much better, you should be fine. Just don't take "everything plus the kitchen sink" or your 600# brother-in-law along. Remember everyone and everything in your truck bed and cab counts against the payload.
Balance the weights in the trailer from side to side and front to back. Don't fill your water tanks, that's 8 pounds per gallon.
 
After doing some more research. Dry weight of trailer is around 6300 lbs. Payload on my truck is 1499. If I figured it right, it should be OK. I'm wandering about the cooling system and suspension. We are starting out within a few hours of home. Then we would like to pull a lot farther . But no mountain terrain but may be hilly.


The cooling system and suspension are exactly the same as the truck with 3.92 gears. Only difference is the gear ratio. It is however, a little bigger than I would feel comfortable with. I have the 3.21 and would probably limit myself to about 6,000 lbs gross. But, that's just me.
 
Nothing wrong with your limit. I'm a "buy more truck than you need" person for towing. Peeps tend to move up to bigger trailers for some "unknown" reasons. 😮

However, for many weekenders they don't want a 2500 as a DD, or they are buried in their current 1500 and can't see a truck upgrade in the near term. So for them, 8K gvwr should be about max.

Course there's always "that guy" who tows even bigger.
The F150 forum is full of them yet in fairness they often have 300-500 more lbs of payload. RAM doesn't offer a payload package option like Ford does.

Slow down, upgrade tires, and get a good WDH with sway control.
 
Remember dry weight also doesn’t include the batteries or propane tanks either thats gonna add more to the hitch weight unless you relocate them. Keep in mind whatever the hitch weight ends up being is taking away from the available payload. You can only go so far with advertised numbers.. a Cat scale is gonna be your friend. Oh and lets not forgot your gonna need a Weight Distribution hitch as well. Add the weight of that onto your “hitch weight” and also subtract that from payload as well. Gotta remember everything you bring chairs, pots, clothes, humans etc is either gonna take away from available payload or add to the weight of the trailer.

Take the time and crunch some numbers before you end up with to much trailer that your truck cant control responsibly (i say control because if thought it would likely pull it just fine.. you gotta brake, and factory in weather and passing truckers thats gonna push the trailer causing sway.

I recommend going ahead and visiting a Cat scale with an empty truck beside you and fuel tank of gas and going ahead and get the GVWR and verify the actually payload available. Then load maybe just the family up and get another weight. You can even go a step further and pack up whatever you plan on bringing in the truck itself. So then have whatever payload number is left to figure out if you have enough available hitch weight. I wouldn’t push the truck to its limits and maybe stick with 70% or so but that would be up to you.

Oh and those heavier ply tires and sway bar.. yep more weight added to the overall GVWR and less payload.

IMO you might be pushing it with this trailer not only the length but mainly the dry weight.. you might wanna consider downsizing length and or weight to keep those numbers happy.


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Remember dry weight also doesn’t include the batteries or propane tanks either thats gonna add more to the hitch weight unless you relocate them. Keep in mind whatever the hitch weight ends up being is taking away from the available payload. You can only go so far with advertised numbers.. a Cat scale is gonna be your friend. Oh and lets not forgot your gonna need a Weight Distribution hitch as well. Add the weight of that onto your “hitch weight” and also subtract that from payload as well. Gotta remember everything you bring chairs, pots, clothes, humans etc is either gonna take away from available payload or add to the weight of the trailer.

Take the time and crunch some numbers before you end up with to much trailer that your truck cant control responsibly (i say control because if thought it would likely pull it just fine.. you gotta brake, and factory in weather and passing truckers thats gonna push the trailer causing sway.

I recommend going ahead and visiting a Cat scale with an empty truck beside you and fuel tank of gas and going ahead and get the GVWR and verify the actually payload available. Then load maybe just the family up and get another weight. You can even go a step further and pack up whatever you plan on bringing in the truck itself. So then have whatever payload number is left to figure out if you have enough available hitch weight. I wouldn’t push the truck to its limits and maybe stick with 70% or so but that would be up to you.

Oh and those heavier ply tires and sway bar.. yep more weight added to the overall GVWR and less payload.

IMO you might be pushing it with this trailer not only the length but mainly the dry weight.. you might wanna consider downsizing length and or weight to keep those numbers happy.


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Originally we were looking at 26' trailers . But this 28' is lighter by a few hundred pounds. We want a bunkhouse for the boys. I've always pulled with a 2500. But they ride rough and we will be driving around wherever we go with the truck. I think I will keep looking for a trailer. Oh yea camper dealers tell me I will be fine up to 8000 lbs with a 1/2 ton. Crazy.
 

I have these in my truck and they are MAGIC for handling heavier loads and trailers. Well worth the money and time to put them in. They say theyre for a 2009-2018, but they will fit your 2022 just fine. These spring combined with a good dialed in WDH and youll be golden pulling your camper around.
 
Always wise to look around.
One thing I'd caution you on... A 28' trailer with bunks coming in lighter than a 26' (assuming the same wall/siding construction) suggests a lighter frame, thinner subfloor etc.. Me thinks that the term ultra-lightweight is another name for "cardboard getting you just past the 1 year warranty before it fails".

Pull behind trailers are the cheapest built of the industry. They are the "price point" of rv's. So if you go longer and get lighter by a few hundred pounds, be careful...

Go on the owners forum of the brand of trailer and see what owners are saying. Kinda like uhh, pickups! 😮🤔
 

I have these in my truck and they are MAGIC for handling heavier loads and trailers. Well worth the money and time to put them in. They say theyre for a 2009-2018, but they will fit your 2022 just fine. These spring combined with a good dialed in WDH and youll be golden pulling your camper around.


Those won't change your payload or towing capacity one bit.
 
Those won't change your payload or towing capacity one bit.
Never said they would. But they will improve the overall experience while towing, especially while towing on the heavier side of your capacity.

I’m aware they claim to increase your capacity but certainly would not suggest anyone count on that when it comes to doing their numbers.
 
Always wise to look around.
One thing I'd caution you on... A 28' trailer with bunks coming in lighter than a 26' (assuming the same wall/siding construction) suggests a lighter frame, thinner subfloor etc.. Me thinks that the term ultra-lightweight is another name for "cardboard getting you just past the 1 year warranty before it fails".

Pull behind trailers are the cheapest built of the industry. They are the "price point" of rv's. So if you go longer and get lighter by a few hundred pounds, be careful...

Go on the owners forum of the brand of trailer and see what owners are saying. Kinda like uhh, pickups! 😮🤔
I will see if I can find a site. I've tried reading reviews but all campers get bad reviews.
 

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