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2025 RAM 1500 Parasitic Battery Drain

I have an almost exact same situation. They have ordered me a new truck. I have owned my truck for about 6 months (Tungsten) and it has been at the dealer for almost half of that time. I know longer trust this truck to start and it has left me stranded more than once. Hopefully new one is not a problem. Stellantis is supposed to cover the cost gap with the deal so it should be zero out of pocket for me.
That is an amazing resolution. Even though insanely inconvenient. Congrats on pulling that off with them.
 
I bought my 2025 RAM 1500 end of August 2024. Several electrical issues.
1. The battery has a parasitic drain (11.4 volts with engine off; 13.8 volts engine running). Haven't started diagnosing yet.
2. At ~1700 miles, three things happened within a few days (1) Notification flashed a few times saying "AEBS (automatic emergency brake system) is deactivated", (2) on Uconnect screen this notification appeared "Uconnect Box Requires Service. Please visit authorized dealer." and (3) front sensors spuriously activated with no objects in its path.

Dealer didn't seem to want to diagnose parasitic drain - said battery is fine. They are replacing front sensors. No answer for the AEBS and Uconnect Box Requires Service notifications.

Anyone else have these issues? Any insights on the issues would be greatly appreciated!
I just got a 25 Laramie sport, bought it in Mn when below zero temps, dealer had to put in new batteries before I bought it. Had the truck for 1 night, drove to work and it wouldn't start at lunch. Needed to jump it. Took it to dealer next morning they couldn't really find anything wrong. But did replace battery connectors on aux battery. They are also going to replace the PCM, waiting on part, actually the second PCM as the first was lost in shipping. It has started fine since battery connectors changed.
 
Gotta wonder what's happening...🙄
So many reported issues. I'm aware that all the electronics are probably at least partially to blame yet sheesh guys, this wasn't an issue even 10 years ago for the most part.

Peeps are paying 25-33% more for a truck that isn't as reliable. Sad.

Our vehicles are over complicated and overpriced. Dealer service techs are reduced to being parts changers.
 
How many reporting this issue leave they key fob in the truck? Curious as I heard this may be causing some of the issues?
 
Gotta wonder what's happening...🙄
So many reported issues. I'm aware that all the electronics are probably at least partially to blame yet sheesh guys, this wasn't an issue even 10 years ago for the most part.

Peeps are paying 25-33% more for a truck that isn't as reliable. Sad.

Our vehicles are over complicated and overpriced. Dealer service techs are reduced to being parts changers.
I disagree, battery draws have been issues for many years. Many techs have a hard time diagnosing them, let alone know how to properly monitor for a draw.
 
ALL newer vehicles will have "some" parasitic battery loss, just the nature of the the newer technology. My understanding and experience, once battery capacity drops below a specific voltage, those systems will shut down preventing a dead battery state. But in all fairness that happening is pretty much non-existent if the truck is driven occasionally. If not a battery tender is required.
I installed a battery tender immediately after replacing the battery religiously using the tender and it still drains...
 
Just seems like it's much more prevalent.
Out of my last two RAMS its been 50%. My last two Fords (2014 Edge and 2015 F150) 0%. I used a tender on the 2019 RAM due to many (this forum) reported issues in 2019/2020 and it still died at 16 months. I had to jump it to trade it off.

It's not the batteries IMHO, there's too many brands that are affected. More likely it is the parasitic draws or in some cases, way higher than parasitic. Perhaps the fob sensitivity being kept too close to the vehicle.

My 2019 would click and lights would go on for no apparent reason, with the fob unshielded but 20' away in the house. Same with the doors, every time I hand washed either truck, as the brush or mitten would touch the front door handles it would lock/unlock/lock. Never had that problem with the two Fords.
 
Apologies…

Been meaning to post on this as I think I found a fix. RF hub wasn’t the issue. I replaced the can bus star connector located behind the panel to the left of the steering wheel. ~$70 fix you can do yourself. Just pull the pins out of the old one, one by one, and place into the new one. Haven’t had battery drain or electrical issues for 6 months now.
Had a daily parasitic battery drain. Dealership would test then recommend I replace a module. Replaced the rf hub, still drained, replaced the radio/screen, still draining, then they recommended a complete wiring harness replacement, which I didn’t do. My dash warning lights and cluster began lighting up like a Xmas tree, truck randomly responded to the key fob, and still draining the battery. When I tested the battery the source of draw was inconsistent. This led me to believe it’s a network connection issue and not specific modules causing the problem. Found a couple videos online that hinted at the same thing and from various Stellantis brands so I figured for $70 it was worth a try.
Before you go to the dealership,1.) watch the videos below, 2.) buy a cheap OBD reader and see what codes it throws (wish I did this sooner). If it has lots of lost comms codes I bet your looking at a network issue and not a module failing issue. Super easy to use and pairs to an app on your phone (links below). Either way you have documentation to push them to look into it. Mine was throwing tons of these codes when the dealership initially scanned it and they ignored them. I asked for the reports after their suggested module fixes did nothing, well other than costing me $1k, time, frustration, etc. , and began diagnosing myself. I’m not a mechanic, just someone who hates being taken advantage of. For $160 on the reader and replacement part you break even for what the dealership charges for one “diagnosis” fee.
Dealerships are not looking to diagnose a cure. They recommend bandaids for problems for the exact reason you stated…replacement of modules to make a ton of money on parts and labor. IMO, cars are engineered this way to ensure failures and retain incoming revenue from you after the sale.

Star Connector Can bus: 2017-2025 Mopar Connector Can Buss 68321746AA | Mopar Online Parts

OBD reader: Amazon.com


I replaced this same exact part on mine that seemed to resolve my issue as well. I do still hook my truck up to a battery tender on a regular basis as well
 
Tenders can vary from a pitiful .75 amp, then either 1 or 1.25 amp then up to 2. The smallest ones are often for motorcycles, golf carts and the like. Most newer vehicles would need the 2 amp size. Noco has several choices, I used anoff brand HF model that worked fine.
Get the plug in with terminal end rings that you can mount permanently to the trucks battery then just plug/unplug the “Anderson” style plugin, not the old fashioned clamps. If that makes sense. Heres an example, sorry for the size of the image…

NOCO GENIUS2D, 2A Direct-Mount Onboard Car Battery Charger, 12V Automotive Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, Float Charger and Desulfator for Marine, ATV, Truck and Deep Cycle Batteries​

Visit the NOCO Store
4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 9,206 ratings
$39.95 $39.95
1741613559756.jpeg

1741613724800.jpeg
 
This is what I used for a couple years... Harbor Fright 1.5 amp.
List $24.95 with 20% off coupon usually available.
1741634957121.jpeg
 
Here's my experience so far with my 2025 Rebel X: Bought new November 30th, pulled in my driveway after leaving the dealership and get a rear park sensor unavailable, service required. Took it back to the dealership on Monday December 2, told sensor #8 was bad needed to order a new one and it's on backorder, sensor comes in and I return to the dealer on December 23rd, new sensor did not fix it, now need to order a new park sense module, on back order, return in January for the module to be installed, module will not calibrate - took 2 days, got it to calibrate and did not fix the issue, determined to be interior harness, no fix kit available, order new harness, take truck home and park it, next day it is completely dead, no power - towed to dealership, troubleshooting determines both batteries are dead - that took a week. Get truck back, sensors still not working and waiting on the harness - harness comes in - 2 days later dealership tells me they have to remove my entire interior to replace the harness - I am furious at this point, service manager talks with me and informs me 2 pins on the old harness are loose in the connector, I ask why just those 2 can't be replaced, Stellantis agrees and they replace the bad pins and the connector with parts from the new harness - get the truck back - seems to be working - passenger tail light not working - just got a call from the dealership and there is no communication to the tail light - and here we go again. I have an open ticket with FCA who offered zero help, don't care about the inconvenience to me, the safety concerns I have with my truck and for my family driving it. All they have done is offered to get me an appointment at the dealership.

Who are you all contacting at Stellantis? I am willing to go the buyback route or even be compensated in some manner. This is not my first Ram or FCA vehicle, I have owned multiple Jeeps and Rams and have never had one in the shop this much.
 
How many reporting this issue leave they key fob in the truck? Curious as I heard this may be causing some of the issues?
I don't think that is it. I believe there is a "time out" period where it stops communicating with the truck. If you leave the fob in there or close to it, the red light will blink for a bit, then stop and not blink anymore.

I have left my key fob on the dash in my truck since the day I bought it (October) and haven't had a problem yet. Knock on wood....
 
Is it the truck or the dumbass people trying to fix them.....
that is part of the issue as well, they go by the book or whatever the computer tells them to do, zero critical thinking or actual troubleshooting the cause of the problem, in my case I knew it wasn't a single sensor causing the whole issue but they went down the road of replacing the sensor, then module, connector, harness, and so on. I have put more mileage on the loaners than I have on my truck at this point.
 
My 2025 Rebel lvl 2 is dead, happened last week and I charged the main battery, dead again today so doing a trickle charge and test of both batteries before I take it to the dealer tomorrow.
 

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