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35s vs 37s on 6" lift UPDATE

JerryBsizzle

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I know there has been topics similar to this before, but I would really like to know if anyone went from a 35 to a 37 and regretted it? Or if you went from a 37 down to a 35 and it was the right choice?

Not worried about gearing, fenderwell gap, weight, speedo calibration or any of that. Just real world experiences.
 
You don't list your gears, but assuming it's a BTS, you have the 3.21. I would not consider larger than 35" on a 3.21 since you can't regear these trucks. Not to mention wear and tear on the ball joints and steering.
 
I have a 2019 Rebel with a 4in level and 1.5 rear coil spring spacers that I recently fit a set of 37's on it just to see how they felt. Let's just say once you get over 35's you really start to feel a difference. I had the stock 18in wheels with a set of Kumho AT52's in a +size of 295-70-18 which is right at a 34in tire and it rides great, pretty much like stock. I then was gifted a set of 20in wheels and tried a set of 35-12.50-20 tires and the ride really firmed up but still felt lively and had a look that I was going for but I was 37in curious at this point because there was still room. I then bought a well used set of 37-12.50-20's to try on the Ram 20in wheels and they actually fit without rubbing after trimming just a little bit on the backside by the doors. I liked the look but holy crap did the ride quality, acceleration, shift points, and braking suffer compared to the 35's. I found it strange because even though the 37's are larger, they were lighter 10ply tires compared to a heavier set of 12ply 35's. Not sure what was up with that but I rode on them for a week and I took them off yeaterday to put my stock Rebel 18's back on and I was happy to have my nice ride back.

All that said, I am back to wanting a set of 18in TRX wheels and tires to try out next because I believe the combination of more sidewall, lighter load range D tire, and look of the 325-65-18's that come on the TRX will ride and look awesome. Just FYI, my truck is a 2019 Rebel 4x4, Hemi (non-ETorque), 3.92 gears, no lift kit. Pics below show the truck all three ways.
 

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I went from 35s to 37s and don't regret it one bit. 35s seemed a bit small for our truck. 37s look perfect, i had 37s and 22" wheels, and then went to 37s with 20"s and like it even more.
 
Looks nice, any difference in ride quality or power, braking, etc...?
Not really. These 325s are the same exact weight as the 35s I had. The Falken AT3Ws were quiet, and these are silent, ZERO noise. Ride is great, even though they are an F rated tire they feel more plush that the E rated Wildpeaks.

Only real difference i can honestly feel is the steering feels much lighter, especially slow speed stuff. Pulling out of the tire shop parking lot i was like WTH, felt so light.
 
Get ready to start replacing CV joints
 
I’m running 37X13.5X22” and I don’t have any problems. I also installed a speedometer programmer and I have plenty of power and it shifts like it’s supposed to.
 

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Boots have been giving out on modded trucks.
I'm good bruh. Going from a 35 to a 325 tire isn't all of a sudden going to make my boots "give out". In fact I still have the factory geometry on my cv axles. This is my 3rd Ram with a 6" kit and I probably have 75-80k miles between the 3 trouble free. I would be more worried about some puck spacer lift that has steep cv angles, but thanks. Do you KNOW of boot problems or it's just something you are conjuring up in your head? Honest question.
 
I agree with Jerry, the boot problem is more for those who max level their trucks 3.5in or above regardless of method used. Doesn't matter if you use pucks, springs, strut spacers, lift struts, or any combination of the above. Unless you get a proper lift you will likely reduce the life of your cv boots, axles, or accelerate the wear of your differential output shafts.

Those with proper lift kits 4 inches and above will have brackets that lower the front differential and lower control arms so there's no problems with cv shaft angles.
 

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