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Did My First Oil Change

604LMDGUY

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No matter what people say, I always did my first oil change around 1k mile mark on all my trucks. So I did the first one on my '23 Big Horn this past weekend. After having read and watched on Youtube all those horrible oil change stories, I was a little nervous if I was gonna make a big mess. The pan draining wasn't bad, and the oil came out did lube the sway bar a little but pretty minor still. When I got to the filter, I approached from those two different spots. I found the front spot which allows you to lean against the front bumper is better for using a wrench, as it offers more space to turn the wrench. I used a plier wrench and was able to loosen up the filter after a few turns. Then I moved to the rear spot which is better spot to take off the filter and put it away. I did use a ziploc bag as many Youtubers suggested. It worked very well. Just take your time. Hold the bag uphigh to let oil drain before you take the filter down. I only had a few small drops from that spot and easily wiped off. The front spot probably is only good for guys like me who has a Billy the Kid body size. LOL

BTW, I installed two front skid plates over the weekend. That was pretty easy. Now I'm waiting for some bolts/nuts to get the fuel tank plate on. I found that the mopar website could be misleading if you follow the diagram to purchase parts. So far I can confirm the plates and fuel tank plate bracket are fine, but hold on to the bolts and the nuts orders. I think Mopar has changed some small details on their plates, but the website did not provide accurate info on those changes. But those changes did affect what sizes of bolts/nuts are gonna be used.
 

Morenar

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No matter what people say, I always did my first oil change around 1k mile mark on all my trucks. So I did the first one on my '23 Big Horn this past weekend. After having read and watched on Youtube all those horrible oil change stories, I was a little nervous if I was gonna make a big mess. The pan draining wasn't bad, and the oil came out did lube the sway bar a little but pretty minor still. When I got to the filter, I approached from those two different spots. I found the front spot which allows you to lean against the front bumper is better for using a wrench, as it offers more space to turn the wrench. I used a plier wrench and was able to loosen up the filter after a few turns. Then I moved to the rear spot which is better spot to take off the filter and put it away. I did use a ziploc bag as many Youtubers suggested. It worked very well. Just take your time. Hold the bag uphigh to let oil drain before you take the filter down. I only had a few small drops from that spot and easily wiped off. The front spot probably is only good for guys like me who has a Billy the Kid body size. LOL

BTW, I installed two front skid plates over the weekend. That was pretty easy. Now I'm waiting for some bolts/nuts to get the fuel tank plate on. I found that the mopar website could be misleading if you follow the diagram to purchase parts. So far I can confirm the plates and fuel tank plate bracket are fine, but hold on to the bolts and the nuts orders. I think Mopar has changed some small details on their plates, but the website did not provide accurate info on those changes. But those changes did affect what sizes of bolts/nuts are gonna be used.
My first oil change, I did the same with the ziploc bags but ended up buying the XL Oil udder and some puppy pads to place over the front diff after a post on here from another member. Just did my 6th oil change two weeks ago and did not spill oil anywhere and what did, it fell on the puppy pad.
 

52ragtop

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Just passed the 1000 mark, and will get it done tomorrow or Wednesday. Did the same on my 2016 Sport, and never had the "infamous" Hemi Tick. Changed to Mobil One and stayed with it, every 5000-6000 miles. Traded it in with 107000 on the clock. Other than the normal of brakes, tires and headlamp bulbs, only the water pump went out. Got over 102,000 on the front brakes! Rears only lasted about 65K.
 

604LMDGUY

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Just passed the 1000 mark, and will get it done tomorrow or Wednesday. Did the same on my 2016 Sport, and never had the "infamous" Hemi Tick. Changed to Mobil One and stayed with it, every 5000-6000 miles. Traded it in with 107000 on the clock. Other than the normal of brakes, tires and headlamp bulbs, only the water pump went out. Got over 102,000 on the front brakes! Rears only lasted about 65K.
Holy! You really baby your truck!
 

Mountain Whiskey

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I just pull the filter out the best I can without dumping it down my arm. If I drop the filter or something, oh well. I spray a bit of brake clean around and throw down some oil dry. No biggie.

Helps rustproof some of the front suspension.

Cracks me up with guys that worry about getting some oil on the underside of the truck. Then the next thread everyone is talking about spraying oil, gooey wax or even cosmoline over the entire undercarriage to rustproof it.
 

Darksteel165

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I just pull the filter out the best I can without dumping it down my arm. If I drop the filter or something, oh well. I spray a bit of brake clean around and throw down some oil dry. No biggie.

Helps rustproof some of the front suspension.

Cracks me up with guys that worry about getting some oil on the underside of the truck. Then the next thread everyone is talking about spraying oil, gooey wax or even cosmoline over the entire undercarriage to rustproof it.
The electrical connectors directly below the filter housing are not oil proof\resistant.
It's not a problem of just "getting oil on the underside of the truck" it's about causing damage or promoting corrosion.

Let me guess you don't ever wash your truck the entire winter and just let the entire bottom half rust out due to salt too right?

Tell me you trade in your truck every 5 years without telling me you trade in your new truck every 5 years. Some of us like to keep what we buy and retain it's value instead of it rusting or corroding into a money pit.
 

Mountain Whiskey

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The electrical connectors directly below the filter housing are not oil proof\resistant.
It's not a problem of just "getting oil on the underside of the truck" it's about causing damage or promoting corrosion.

Let me guess you don't ever wash your truck the entire winter and just let the entire bottom half rust out due to salt too right?

Tell me you trade in your truck every 5 years without telling me you trade in your new truck every 5 years. Some of us like to keep what we buy and retain it's value instead of it rusting or corroding into a money pit.
Nope. I have a problem letting vehicles go so i dont do trade ins, just pay them off in 3 years and drive. I wash pretty regularly during winter and summer. My truck is not a sissy truck that is afraid of a carwash. Only thing I ever had rust to death was a Jeep TJ. They would rust in death valley.

I'll let you in on a secret too. You are driving a run of the mill, average, mass produced pickup truck. No matter what you do, it will retain as much value when you decide to junk it as any other mass produced vehicle like it at the scrap yard.

Strangley enough, I never had oil dripping on something cause it to rust or corrode either. If your oil does this, you should consider changing brands.

Really, think about what you are saying... the electrical connectors are not "oil proof". I guess the water, salt, brine, muck, creek water, tobacco spit the guy two cars up at the light dumped out or whatever other mystery crud you run through going down the road does not phase the connections on the bottom of your pickup but some oil causes corrosion.

I guess you need a muffler cooler so it doesn't get hot.
 
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silverWS6

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I just pull the filter out the best I can without dumping it down my arm. If I drop the filter or something, oh well. I spray a bit of brake clean around and throw down some oil dry. No biggie.

Helps rustproof some of the front suspension.

Cracks me up with guys that worry about getting some oil on the underside of the truck. Then the next thread everyone is talking about spraying oil, gooey wax or even cosmoline over the entire undercarriage to rustproof it.

I legit buy 2-3 cans of brake clean along with my oil and filter
 

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