Recent content by Wnghks701

Minimum 1” spacer and hammer in the metal tab that holds the liner. I still rub a little but very minimal

yeah. You don’t have to touch your steering wheel with comma ai. It’s pretty expensive tho u less if you can snag a used one for cheap.

I don’t know if it’s what you’re looking for… but I have comma ai. I mean, it doesn’t make turns like Tesla self drive and I use it in city drives sometimes.

Check the fuse

Potentially. Mine is 1.5” spacer with leveled air suspension. And I’m only dragging the back side of the liner.

For the front liner, you can unscrew the three bolts and push it behind. That should give you little more clearance. Also, heat and push it in with a pipe or something.

Anything below 1.5”, you’ll need to trim your OEM studs. The pocket on TRX wheels are about 1/2” deep. I have 1.5 and bought 1” thinking it would fit but it didn’t clear stock studs. I did also have to bend the metal tab.

I’d say around 90k. I thought it was the axle, so I had it replaced under warranty. But noise was still there and finally got it fixed at around 105k. I did LCA and UCA first and noise was still there and I replaced toe rod ends and noise was resolved.

Front: FRONT DOOR. EXTERIOR TRIM.. Ram 1500 | Mopar Parts Webstores, Rear: Exterior Trim - Rear Door for 2019 Ram 1500 | Mopar Parts Canada

I think someone here said up to 5 times of disconnecting is okay. You should put it on exit mode to conserve as much as you can though.

My clunking was actually combination of tie rod and LCA (driver side). UCA was okay but I was already in there so I did them all at once.

Might as well do your tie rods too 😂

My LCA ball joints were toasted. I did UCA and tie rod end all together. I have roughly 110k miles on my 2019

The hardest part for me was seized camber bolt… otherwise if you have all the tools, should be fairly easy job.

Mine was lower control arm ball joints and tie rod end. Lift the car up and pry your tire up and down and see if you hear it.