Recent content by Rlandon

I used both the tone generator and your results and they were identical for my 21 with the Alpine 12". Now for all the speaker wiring of what to keep Alpine and what will be JL amp powered. Thanks for posting this!!!! Still waiting for my DSP to arrive this week to finish it all.

What did you use to mount your amp to the stealthbox, self-tapping screws, drywall, or other? Since the enclosure is fiberglass asking before I tap mine and possibly leave a crack to rattle away. Just waiting for my tone generator to arrive so I can identify the CH03 wiring to the connectors...

I have the ORP with a ReadyLift 3.5 SST kit installed by the dealer running 295/60/20's with no issues. Lock to lock and no rubbing. Not sure on the 305 if it "might" rub the inner fender plastic. Only one way to find out. Not a fan of spacers.

The fun has begun. All the wiring is run, Stealthbox is mounted, JL amp is mounted and wired. Finishing up a few OCD items today then on the the 12" removal and PAC gear tomorrow. I ordered a tone generator from Sonic Electronics the other day hoping it would be here today. No dice, not in stock...

My old audiophile days back in the 80's. Bridged Carver amps pushing 4000W through four Bose 901's. It was fun watching the house lights dim at only half power. The floor speakers were for the TV only. This is what happens when you live in Japan for several years.

Trying to feed the door speakers from the JL amp using the oem wiring. If correct the CH-03 is the one for that? Everything else I have a handle on and have all the wiring run as of today. Seats are out and stealthbox is ready to go in first thing tomorrow morning. Then the JL amp and start...

Sorry if I seem to pick your response apart but need to clarify how this will all connect and run as I hope it will. The dash, rear overhead, and factory sub speakers will still be powered from the Alpine oem amp. The doors and stealthbox will feed from the aftermarket amp. I'm using the CH41...

Prefer not to cut or tap into the factory speaker wiring. Should I decide later to sell the truck it's an easy swap back (when I win the lotto and buy the TRX).

I'm using an old JL HD900/5 I've had in a box for years. I bought it used and don't even know if it works. Hope so! It has the box, docs, and all the parts but the serial is scratched out. Guess I could bench test it first.

Is that Helix RCA in and out?

Thanks guys for the comments. I started running the wiring today. Amp wiring is nice and neat in the engine bay and ran inside the plastic tray along the door edge (after figuring out how to open it). Mine is etorque also so more wiring in those trays than non-etorque I assume?? Now to take out...

The PAC website makes it confusing. On one line it states it provides a flat output but on another it states it allows the 3 band factory EQ to work via settings in the app. If so, that's not flat. I'd prefer to have a 7 band EQ (or greater) or a tunable DSP with white noise gen (like my old JBL...

For those running a PAC CH41 to power your aftermarket amps, are you running a DSP or EQ between the CH41 and amp(s)? If I'm correct the signal from the CH41 is flat so before I install my gear I'm thinking I need a way to tune or customize the sound. I have the CH01, CH41, JL 900/5, JBL 6x9's...

Did you have to use resistors for the factory wiring to simulate a speaker load on the factory amp? That's what Crutchfield is saying and selling on their site. Looks like I should get my drill ready also and pull mine through the plug ends. I'm using 12GA which is really overkill but prefer to...

I did my Gen 4 years ago and remember it was a PITA also. I haven't pulled the access covers off yet but the seals have for the doors have a plug for the wiring, correct?