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That's solid advice lol. For the final leveling step after you complete the shift procedure then just let the fluid drain in the window, I find the shifts are smoother when you let it drain until it's in the upper part of the range, 110-115*. I just never know if you're supposed to let it drain...
What temperature was the transmission at when you put the plug back in, and did you wait until the fluid started to drip individual drops or just a slow stream?
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With the pan levelled, shifts are more pronounced whereas, with the frame levelled, the shifts are smoother and a little quicker for me. I'm running my tune now which makes the shifts real snappy. With the pan levelled, the shifts are a little more exaggerated if that makes sense.
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I've tried both ways and I enjoy the way it shifts more with the truck levelled than with the pan levelled. I just like seeing which method people choose.
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I always like to ask because several on other forums swear by jacking the rear of truck way up to level the transmission pan rails as opposed to just leveling the frame which only slightly raises the rear when going through the final steps after the shift procedure.
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I bought a new gasket when installing the PPE pan, it was only like $20 and I'd rather have a new one in there anyway. I didn't use the collars either, just tightened the bolts without overdoing it and I've been leak free as well. I did, however, find it easier to jack up the rear of the...
For what it's worth, I'm at 60K on my '19 and I've had these symptoms since new practically. I've tried leveling the fluid, performing quick relearns via AlfaOBD. Short of having the valve body switched out I think it is what it is at this point. The relearns help.
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I changed mine at around 50K (just because) and swapped to a PPE pan. I didn't feel like messing with the exhaust and found it much easier to lift the transmission by removing the three mounting bolts and jacking up the rear of the transmission. I have jack extensions so those worked well. I may...
But you're tilting the back up, not raising it all together so the engine side of the drivetrain isn't really moving. I had to raise it even higher than you would with a stock pan because I installed a PPE pan and it still didn't move. Maybe I have the slowest TRX in existence lol.
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I just did this yesterday and it worked perfectly. I found removing the bolts and raising the transmission was a much easier approach that messing with the exhaust. My exhaust did not move.
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