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These trucks seem to have a penchant for turning the lights on a bit earlier/ off later than other vehicles. I do wish there was a way to separate the dimming of the interior lights from the exterior.
These trucks are very picky with the kind of cabin filter they like, otherwise they stink, ALOT. The activated charcoal ones help. Also clean out the air box when you change the filter.
I use a dielectric grease on a lot of the connectors/connections for exactly that reason. I also use a silicone lube on all the latches/strikers. I also agree that a manual back-up isn't something that should be a option, it should be mandatory.
Good to hear it's working again. I'll have to keep an eye on mine the next few days, as we've had some decent snow and it's melting/re-freezing a bunch. I long for the days of mechanical connection with important things like the transmission.
Have you changed the battery? Low voltage will cause all sorts of havoc. Any rear window/ RF module issues?
Did it start working better when you re-connected the battery?
The first appears the be the 'front axle disconnect', similar to what Jeep uses on the Wranglers. Probably needs a re-seal. Might as well do a diff service at the same time. As for your second, welcome to the world of 'real' transfer cases.
I, too, have the MFT, been good so far, but that's not 'terrible' for dealer pricing on that. If I get outta there for under a grand, I consider it a win anymore with how many 'modules' these new vehicles have.
That's somewhat normal with 'fob' vehicles, as the water/brushes act like your hands and it'll try and lock the vehicle(s). Ford, Jeep, RAM, Porsche, Hyundai have all done that for me over the years.
Yep, pretty much all newer cars the things basically have to be boiling over before the temp gauges move. It's really annoying when you're climbing a grade and temps are hitting 230ish and all seems perfectly 'fine' with the coolant gauge.
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