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Rough ride

I went to Southern Style 4X4 to see my Fuel Variant 20x9s with the new GCM color match..and to have the 285/60R20 Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascents mounted & road force balanced.

The RF numbers can in at 8/8/4/2 and none had to ne broke down and spun..one of the 8s needed and extra 0.5oz after initial balance to dial in. Shop guy was happy and surpeised they balanced so easily.

They're cleaned up with hub rings, valve caps, psi at 39, and ready to put on..but probably can't get to it until nect Monday (and get AlfaOBD programming all set also).

Washed the truck today, and everthing is prepped to install the OEM Fender Flares at same time (new spats are swapped in already).

I'll get some feedback on these tires for you next week.

Thoughts on which center caps...
Matte Black with Chrome "Fuel" or completely GCM caps???

TPMS are matte black metal with chrome caps, and I have matte black and chrome Gorilla splined lugs sets..probably using chrome lugs. (my Latamie has Sport pkg with chrome RAM on grille and doors).
View attachment 203517View attachment 203518
Dang that looks good.
 
Unfortunately this aligns with my hypothesis going in. I’ve long heard the 2.0” Foxes do not have a similar ride signature to the 2.5” Foxes, and instead are rather firm, especially cranked to any material lift height.

As for the noise based on description I keep thinking back to some type of contact between UCA and coilover spring. But this should only be a remote possibility if using stock UCAs on a level cranked up pretty high (2.5” or more).
I had it back at the shop and the owner did say they firm up once adjusted. Mine set at about 1 and half inch he said.
Drove a smooth highway this morning in cool weather and it felt as skittish as a 3/4 ton.
IMG_1585.jpeg
 
I had it back at the shop and the owner did say they firm up once adjusted. Mine set at about 1 and half inch he said.
Drove a smooth highway this morning in cool weather and it felt as skittish as a 3/4 ton.
View attachment 203658
So crazy, I'm on Eibach Pro-Truck srruts/shocks (1.625" lfront level lift).and they are actually rwally hard to find much fault with, so your Foxes are confusing 🤔

It looks great though! Not great if you hate the ride though.
 
Plus I’m running 32psi cold on 275/60 HT tires…
 
Plus I’m running 32psi cold on 275/60 HT tires…
Not sure if that is actually good though..like I stated before, mine us really sensituve to setting Cold psi at 39psi..gets to 41-42 HOT if at 44 or over it gets rough.

Low coldvpsi was comfortable to me and handked poorly..but my setup is different than yours.
 
On a prior Bilstien setup, I had mounted a set of E range DuraTracs. They rode awfully and I really played around with air pressures since tires were the only thing that changed.

Instinctively I aired way down to something like 32 to try to improve ride comfort, even through I knew it was way below spec and handling would go to crap.

It didn’t help.

After tying all kinds of pressures I actually found that about 42-44 psi yielded the best ride comfort on those tires. And of course handling was better (relatively for knobby tires anyway).

My theory was this allowed the shocks to do more of the role in damping rather than the tire itself.

Point being, not saying to run those specific pressures, rather just not to rule out higher / proper pressures In pursuit of improvement.

Still, I don’t think that is the main cause of the issue though…. Which is so puzzling!!!
 
On a prior Bilstien setup, I had mounted a set of E range DuraTracs. They rode awfully and I really played around with air pressures since tires were the only thing that changed.

Instinctively I aired way down to something like 32 to try to improve ride comfort, even through I knew it was way below spec and handling would go to crap.

It didn’t help.

After tying all kinds of pressures I actually found that about 42-44 psi yielded the best ride comfort on those tires. And of course handling was better (relatively for knobby tires anyway).

My theory was this allowed the shocks to do more of the role in damping rather than the tire itself.

Point being, not saying to run those specific pressures, rather just not to rule out higher / proper pressures In pursuit of improvement.

Still, I don’t think that is the main cause of the issue though…. Which is so puzzling!!!
I like your thinkimg👍
 
Very nice setup, indeed. Could you possibly post the part numbers for those fender flares, please.
I bought mine on Ebay last year..about $500(? can't remember exact amount).

Here's a screenshot of the Mopar PNs and a link to buy them prepainted if you want.

I paid $375 to have mine painted & cleared

Screenshot_20250722-135755_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
On a prior Bilstien setup, I had mounted a set of E range DuraTracs. They rode awfully and I really played around with air pressures since tires were the only thing that changed.

Instinctively I aired way down to something like 32 to try to improve ride comfort, even through I knew it was way below spec and handling would go to crap.

It didn’t help.

After tying all kinds of pressures I actually found that about 42-44 psi yielded the best ride comfort on those tires. And of course handling was better (relatively for knobby tires anyway).

My theory was this allowed the shocks to do more of the role in damping rather than the tire itself.

Point being, not saying to run those specific pressures, rather just not to rule out higher / proper pressures In pursuit of improvement.

Still, I don’t think that is the main cause of the issue though…. Which is so puzzling!!!
You guys are right about the lower tire pressure likely adding to the discomfort… I have noticed that before on other vehicles, years back.
Buttt… I dropped from 38 because it was firm…
I’m going to play around with air pressures 38 and 40/41 and report back.

I’ve been thinking, for my type of driving - on road only, I should have just stuck with OE shocks and springs and just stuffed spacers in there!
And saved big bucks as well.
 
On a prior Bilstien setup, I had mounted a set of E range DuraTracs. They rode awfully and I really played around with air pressures since tires were the only thing that changed.

Instinctively I aired way down to something like 32 to try to improve ride comfort, even through I knew it was way below spec and handling would go to crap.

It didn’t help.

After tying all kinds of pressures I actually found that about 42-44 psi yielded the best ride comfort on those tires. And of course handling was better (relatively for knobby tires anyway).

My theory was this allowed the shocks to do more of the role in damping rather than the tire itself.

Point being, not saying to run those specific pressures, rather just not to rule out higher / proper pressures In pursuit of improvement.

Still, I don’t think that is the main cause of the issue though…. Which is so puzzling!!!
I’ll check it out, I think you’re on to something sir
 
I got my first drive yesterday with the new Fuels/Ascents.

I set the Tire OD to 2585mm on AlfaOBD and the Speedo (and Shift Points) is spot-on to the GPS speed on my JBV1 Radar App. ABS Initiliaztion was greyed-out and not an option to reset. No codes, warning lights, or program changes were present..all working as should.

I set the tire psi to 39.0 before installing the wheels. It took about 5mins/5miles for the new metal-stemed TPMS Direct valve stems to kick in on the dash..and they were already to 41psi each. After a 45 mile drive yesterday, all of them reached 44 Hot. After cooling down overnight, this morning they were at 39.5 each. My OEM psi was 39 and that converts to a recommended 40 for an LT285/60R20, but I felt that yesterday's 39.0/39.5 seemed a bit high actually, so I aired them down to 38.1 for my next trial..I may try 37 and even 40 to try and dial in the best psi with my current suspension.

To which, I found out what I thought I would...my Eibach Pro-Truck struts/shocks are adequate on smooth-ish roads still, but the slight jounce and secondary rebound kick, that was small with OEM wheels on large bumps & small washboard-type road cracks/bumps, became more pronounced from the extra 12lbs/corner..I will have to move to Fox PEs or Kings for sure.

The Bridgestone Dueler AT Ascents seem very smooth themselves overall, and handling/cornering didn't diminish at all, but my Eibachs are not up to the task. My only slight complaint with the Ascents (other than the 12lbs) is that they aren't quite as quiet as I'd hoped they'd be..they have a faint, but constant and distinct, typical AT tread sound that is mostly above 45mph..not bad, but I noticed my wife turn the HK volume up 1-2 notches. This are 16/32 ATs compared to OEM 10/32 HTs, so expected.

Calling Don about Thurn Kings today, but back to thinking Fox PEs may be better for me after reading an Accutune article on Kings last night (see link). I'll pick his brain on Thuren's CAs and bars. I do feel the Delrin-bushed "Johnny Joints" would improve fluidity and suspension movement, but want to ask him about any NVH increases or issues. Core4x4 also has complete Rear CA/Bar/Endlink Pkg that looks solid also.

accutuneoffroad.com
 
Aired up to 38 cold, did a 700 mile round trip yesterday all interstate starting at cool 60 deg f rainy weather and ending the day at 90 deg c.
All it did was firm the ride back up to how it was. Not sure I want to even try higher pressures.
Still feels like a F250.
Reached out to Fox but having trouble getting a response.
Hope to be hearing from them.

I like the deeper tread depth of the ascents, though I’m not a fan of tire noise. Also not a fan of the nerdy look of the HT’s I currently have fitted!
 
I bought mine on Ebay last year..about $500(? can't remember exact amount).

Here's a screenshot of the Mopar PNs and a link to buy them prepainted if you want.

I paid $375 to have mine painted & cleared

View attachment 203695
Thanks a bunch, much appreciated!
 
Thanks a bunch, much appreciated!
If your Ram was like mine, without OEM flares, you can mount the flares wuth just the fender bolts (10 each flare), or trim the peg off and use thin 3M double stick tape on each..buy a 10 yd roll on Amazon, cut 5" strips, stick on tab then pull back red back to the tab (about 4") and cut off the 4" of double stick, fold the red back to 90° bend so it hangs over flare edge, bolt on almost tight, then pull of each backer, press flare to fender, do last bit of tightening bolts, then done.

Pics of mine '24 Laramie with flares.....
20250721_114229.jpg20250721_113901.jpg20250721_113736.jpg20250721_113713.jpg
 
Dang, those fender flares do round it off nicely!
They look great.

I’m gonna rant once more until I get this figured out.
Fox’s Minnesota division responded yesterday morning asking for part numbers. Haven’t heard back yet.

Yesterday I did a two hour round trip on a nice highway, got back to town and ran a few errands in 98 deg weather. Our town has some old, rough and patched roads which is where these Foxies should shine…
I’m not exaggerating when I say it feels like I’m riding on wooden blocks - crashing over manholes and other irregularities. Zero damping. Shocking. The worst it’s been. There is something wrong with these shocks.

Will see where this goes. Either way, I’m not accepting this.
 
I did air down the Ascents from 39psi to 38psi the other day, and then did about a 20-25 mile trip to town yesterday.

The ride was softer and smoother, and I'd swear a but quieter also, so I'll try a bit more this weekend at 38psi and then try 37psi also, and maybe lower(?).

Carli suggests 35psi Front and 30psi Rear for 35x12.5s and Hybrid tires, so I might try going lower in Rear than Front also. My truck always rides much smoother with about 200lbs in the bed.
 
Dang, those fender flares do round it off nicely!
They look great.

I’m gonna rant once more until I get this figured out.
Fox’s Minnesota division responded yesterday morning asking for part numbers. Haven’t heard back yet.

Yesterday I did a two hour round trip on a nice highway, got back to town and ran a few errands in 98 deg weather. Our town has some old, rough and patched roads which is where these Foxies should shine…
I’m not exaggerating when I say it feels like I’m riding on wooden blocks - crashing over manholes and other irregularities. Zero damping. Shocking. The worst it’s been. There is something wrong with these shocks.

Will see where this goes. Either way, I’m not accepting this.

There is something seriously strange going on here.

I’m trying to think of what else could be happening interfering with / limiting the damping.

Three things come to mind:

1) Is you have used up all your down travel. But this only happens when folks crank their coilovers to maximum lift and have stock upper control arms.

But if I read correctly you actually lowered yours down to 1.65” or so, and so this absolutely should not be the cause. Still, I’d be real curious to Jack the front up by the frame and see how much droop you actually have.

2) if upper and/or lower control arm mounts were loosened as part of install, they must be torqued with the truck on the ground. Torqued in the air and the bushings in the arms want to act almost like another spring, resisting proper travel.

I’d be curious to have the shop confirm that’s what they did.

3) Sway bar end links: I didn’t catch it, did these get replaced? If so wonder if they got some massive link, like for a 4” lift or something, that is applying too much force and limiting up travel.

Again I’d ask the shop for part numbers/ verification.

Even still, we’re it me I’d be taking it all apart myself for inspection. I’d be curious to see if there is any limitations in travel without any coilover in there at all - like a bound up CV or something strange happening with the knuckle/ ball joints.

And of course that would afford the opportunity to ensure control arms are torqued at load.

Sorry dude! Sucks when you pay good money for parts and labor and are let down.
 

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