8 Way Gang Switches Hard Wired and With Wireless Phone App Yes I want it all {if possible} RGB if other requirements are met

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I'm not loyal to any particular brand. I thought I saved a link when I saw it but can't find it anywhere now. Maybe my eyesight is worse than they tell me or may be it was a dream. Anyone have or seen such a system? I've spent hours looking and my eyeballs hurt, so if you know of one please give me some love. Exhausted and Thank you

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

I'm not loyal to any particular brand. I thought I saved a link when I saw it but can't find it anywhere now. Maybe my eyesight is worse than they tell me or may be it was a dream. Anyone have or seen such a system? I've spent hours looking and my eyeballs hurt, so if you know of one please give me some love. Exhausted and Thank you

im pretty sure auxbeam has a aux switch system with those exact specifications. but i know also switchpros has something similar to it as well

Amazon.com

 

[boogielander]

SP9100 Switch Panel Power System

store.switchpros.com

buy here:

Switch Pros SP-9100 8 Switch Panel Power System

Switch Pros SP-9100 8 Switch Panel Power System-Putting an end to dashboard clutter is easy, with the Switch-Pros 9100 Switch Panel Power System-Off-Road switch

sdhqoffroad.com

Amazon.com

this is EXACTLY what you need and is also made in USA not china and is race proven technology found on plenty of podium winning race trucks. it is also the original system that chinese (auxbeam and the like) copied.

Features:

• Reliability (most important) - mine's going for 7 years already and I abused the heck out of it and exposed it to all kinds of enemies of electrical: heat, vibration, water, cold, you name it. still running like the day I first got it.
  • the auxbeams WILL fail, and that's why it's cheap. I've replaced many for customers who rather buy cheap and pay me again 6 months later to replace it. I've also had these chinese junk dead on arrival.
  • take it from a professional installer, switch pro worth every penny.
• Phone app to setup different functions, strobe, burst strobe, burst, momentary on/ off, ign bypass, RGB backlight colors, 2 external triggers, master switch, etc.
• Made in US and original product

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

my aux beam is 2 years going on 3 works like the day i got it and ive put it through heat, vibration, water and dust oh and cold

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

im pretty sure auxbeam has a aux switch system with those exact specifications. but i know also switchpros has something similar to it as well

Amazon.com

Thank you! You are the first person ever to respond to one of my posts. It is appreciated
Switchpros would be great, but the expense would hold up the many other projects I wanted done last week. I looked until I was going blind before I asked for help. After hours of looking and researching everything looked the same. Before I pull the trigger Is there any brands or types I should stay away from?

 

[1BADRAMLIMITED]

Thank you! You are the first person ever to respond to one of my posts. It is appreciated
Switchpros would be great, but the expense would hold up the many other projects I wanted done last week. I looked until I was going blind before I asked for help. After hours of looking and researching everything looked the same. Before I pull the trigger Is there any brands or types I should stay away from?

I’m sure @boogielander is still going to urge you not to use aux beam but I’ve had great success and so have others on the forum. And like you if I had a fat stack of cash I wanted to throw at my truck I would absolutely get switch pros but to me it ain’t that serious and what I have gets the job done, and does it dam good I must say!!!

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

SP9100 Switch Panel Power System

store.switchpros.com

buy here:

Switch Pros SP-9100 8 Switch Panel Power System

Switch Pros SP-9100 8 Switch Panel Power System-Putting an end to dashboard clutter is easy, with the Switch-Pros 9100 Switch Panel Power System-Off-Road switch

sdhqoffroad.com

Amazon.com

this is EXACTLY what you need and is also made in USA not china and is race proven technology found on plenty of podium winning race trucks. it is also the original system that chinese (auxbeam and the like) copied.

Features:

• Reliability (most important) - mine's going for 7 years already and I abused the heck out of it and exposed it to all kinds of enemies of electrical: heat, vibration, water, cold, you name it. still running like the day I first got it.
  • the auxbeams WILL fail, and that's why it's cheap. I've replaced many for customers who rather buy cheap and pay me again 6 months later to replace it. I've also had these chinese junk dead on arrival.
  • take it from a professional installer, switch pro worth every penny.
• Phone app to setup different functions, strobe, burst strobe, burst, momentary on/ off, ign bypass, RGB backlight colors, 2 external triggers, master switch, etc.
• Made in US and original product

I think you are EXACTLY correct. The think part of that sentence is my wallet. If you pay someone to install it you would be correct in the final over all cost. I don't see in what world I couldn't buy 3 new units, save $100 and make it 7 years. I've only had 1 vehicle in my lifetime that I've kept for 7 years and longer. You are 100% correct if the case involves labor, but that's my variable. I also think you could be correct without labor just in aggravation, but that's something I'm willing to chance.0 If it went out most people on this forum could force it to work if the situation required. What will probably happen is at some point I'll see a sale or used one and switch it over. Thank you for responding, you are only 2nd person to reply to a post I've made and I do appreciate your time

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I’m sure @boogielander is still going to urge you not to use aux beam but I’ve had great success and so have others on the forum. And like you if I had a fat stack of cash I wanted to throw at my truck I would absolutely get switch pros but to me it ain’t that serious and what I have gets the job done, and does it dam good I must say!!!

Its hard not to agree with him. His point is valid, but as I stated in response to him my strategy is different at the moment. Its hard to believe I cant get 3 sets of Auxbeam switches and make it 7 years while also saving $100. I'm hoping a sale or some used switch pros will come around. I've only had the truck 3 months and I'm a little overwhelmed with new information parts etc. A lot to learn and take in but I do enjoy it.

 

[boogielander]

i state what i stated because im the one who gets paid to do these work and i tell everyone the same thing. and then it ALWAYS happen. I even told my customers I much rather they do it right the first time and I don't take more money from them for the same thing later. "I don't want your money but if you insist on coming back to pay me more for the same thing then it's on you"

fun story, in the local ram group chat i'm in, one guy did exactly the same thinking an auxbeam would save him money despite i told him exactly the same thing, word for word. it was great for the first year, then he got in a little fender bender so his front bumper was off, taking his baja designs off the truck as well while shopping for a new metal bumper.
he just got everything put in and viola, auxbeam dead. i did NOT install that one, so for any doubters out there, it was not me sabotaging the install just to prove a point. a panel not used at all in 6 months died on its own.
now he has to waste time finding out which part is the problem: the brain (panel in engine bay) or the switch (panel in cab) and then swap out whichever is the problem. this just happened last week and he said "now you can gleefully tell me 'I told you so'" but instead I told him ways he can troubleshoot to narrow down the issue and replace it.

my friend (the 3rd gen cummins with GFC on that shows up in some pictures I post here) also did exactly opposite of what I told him, and he installed it himself as he has background in automotive and low voltage wiring. guess what happened? the day after he put it in, the first trip out, auxbeam shorted itself. All he had on were two Diode Dynamics SSC1 cube lights as chase light. the first weekend, day after install, it shorted itself. Wiring was fine, i checked. not installer error, I was there when he did the install. what did he do? he pulled out his starlink that night at camp and ordered a switch pro 9100 right then, and the auxbeam went to trash right after he got home.

now, if you do switch vehicles and you do your own work, you can always take out the switch pro when you go sell the vehicle. That's what i did and that only took me no more than 5 minutes to take it out. the one I have now is 7 years and i used it on my previous build and took it out before i sold the rig, and i'm planning to do the same when the right power wagon shows up. that should eliminate your issue of swapping vehicles.
then, there's also fixing it yourself. There's nothing to fix on these chinesium solid state panels. actually, there's nothing to fix on all solid state panels and yes, switch pro is also a solid state panel as well, but that thing does not grenade itself for no reason. there's no way to "force it to work" and if you are lucky enough that it's either the brain or the switch that goes, there's always a chance that auxbeam changes its connector style. that had happened before to a customer of ours and in the end, he listened and got a switch pro. no issue since.

so the bottom line is, Is it going to happen 100%? no, but it's a 60% chance of happening considering everything i've seen, both my friends and my customers. especially if you go on trails that make a lot of dust and you're using it for chase lights, it is of EXTREME importance to have something 100% reliable, because on dusty trails, chase lights are the only thing that lets people behind you know where you are. and yes, i've seen first hand how troublesome, annoying, and inconvenient for everyone a trail collision that could be avoided with working chase lights are. you don't want that, and you definitely don't want having lights that don't work due to a panel that can die.

am i stacking with cash to throw? no, but i throw cash at things that can impact my ability to get home or not. and i think that's something worth thinking about instead of "how much I can save"

I think you are EXACTLY correct. The think part of that sentence is my wallet. If you pay someone to install it you would be correct in the final over all cost. I don't see in what world I couldn't buy 3 new units, save $100 and make it 7 years. I've only had 1 vehicle in my lifetime that I've kept for 7 years and longer. You are 100% correct if the case involves labor, but that's my variable. I also think you could be correct without labor just in aggravation, but that's something I'm willing to chance.0 If it went out most people on this forum could force it to work if the situation required. What will probably happen is at some point I'll see a sale or used one and switch it over. Thank you for responding, you are only 2nd person to reply to a post I've made and I do appreciate your time

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

i state what i stated because im the one who gets paid to do these work and i tell everyone the same thing. and then it ALWAYS happen. I even told my customers I much rather they do it right the first time and I don't take more money from them for the same thing later. "I don't want your money but if you insist on coming back to pay me more for the same thing then it's on you"

fun story, in the local ram group chat i'm in, one guy did exactly the same thinking an auxbeam would save him money despite i told him exactly the same thing, word for word. it was great for the first year, then he got in a little fender bender so his front bumper was off, taking his baja designs off the truck as well while shopping for a new metal bumper.
he just got everything put in and viola, auxbeam dead. i did NOT install that one, so for any doubters out there, it was not me sabotaging the install just to prove a point. a panel not used at all in 6 months died on its own.
now he has to waste time finding out which part is the problem: the brain (panel in engine bay) or the switch (panel in cab) and then swap out whichever is the problem. this just happened last week and he said "now you can gleefully tell me 'I told you so'" but instead I told him ways he can troubleshoot to narrow down the issue and replace it.

my friend (the 3rd gen cummins with GFC on that shows up in some pictures I post here) also did exactly opposite of what I told him, and he installed it himself as he has background in automotive and low voltage wiring. guess what happened? the day after he put it in, the first trip out, auxbeam shorted itself. All he had on were two Diode Dynamics SSC1 cube lights as chase light. the first weekend, day after install, it shorted itself. Wiring was fine, i checked. not installer error, I was there when he did the install. what did he do? he pulled out his starlink that night at camp and ordered a switch pro 9100 right then, and the auxbeam went to trash right after he got home.

now, if you do switch vehicles and you do your own work, you can always take out the switch pro when you go sell the vehicle. That's what i did and that only took me no more than 5 minutes to take it out. the one I have now is 7 years and i used it on my previous build and took it out before i sold the rig, and i'm planning to do the same when the right power wagon shows up. that should eliminate your issue of swapping vehicles.
then, there's also fixing it yourself. There's nothing to fix on these chinesium solid state panels. actually, there's nothing to fix on all solid state panels and yes, switch pro is also a solid state panel as well, but that thing does not grenade itself for no reason. there's no way to "force it to work" and if you are lucky enough that it's either the brain or the switch that goes, there's always a chance that auxbeam changes its connector style. that had happened before to a customer of ours and in the end, he listened and got a switch pro. no issue since.

so the bottom line is, Is it going to happen 100%? no, but it's a 60% chance of happening considering everything i've seen, both my friends and my customers. especially if you go on trails that make a lot of dust and you're using it for chase lights, it is of EXTREME importance to have something 100% reliable, because on dusty trails, chase lights are the only thing that lets people behind you know where you are. and yes, i've seen first hand how troublesome, annoying, and inconvenient for everyone a trail collision that could be avoided with working chase lights are. you don't want that, and you definitely don't want having lights that don't work due to a panel that can die.

am i stacking with cash to throw? no, but i throw cash at things that can impact my ability to get home or not. and i think that's something worth thinking about instead of "how much I can save"

Where is the most common fail point? Is it safer to go with replaceable relays if microswitches are the issues? We really aren't working with much that can go wrong. If you went completely wireless and used your phone you could only have 1 or 2 things that could fail. The Bluetooth interface and a solid state relay or am I missing something? I guess when I meant force it I was referring to adding a piece of wire or just directly running it to the battery. You could also take the positive wire from lights and the positive coming in to the box. I'm just saying if I needed light I could make that happen regardless. I do carry more stuff than most to repair.

 

[boogielander]

Where is the most common fail point? Is it safer to go with replaceable relays if microswitches are the issues? We really aren't working with much that can go wrong. If you went completely wireless and used your phone you could only have 1 or 2 things that could fail. The Bluetooth interface and a solid state relay or am I missing something? I guess when I meant force it I was referring to adding a piece of wire or just directly running it to the battery. You could also take the positive wire from lights and the positive coming in to the box. I'm just saying if I needed light I could make that happen regardless. I do carry more stuff than most to repair.

the most common fail point is the internal of the panel that is in the engine bay. the only safe way to do it with low quality panels is to run relay on everything, which basically means using the chinesium as an on/ off switch only. no more output dimming, no more strobe or bursting, and nothing like that. in that sense, you'll get a panel that lasts longer but what's the point of buying a panel that has all these features when a simple on/ off switch would do the job?

these panels are sealed, no way to fix. it doesn't matter if you're complete wireless or not, it is the brain that goes down.

you are running it directly to the battery, with a 12v wire hooked to your IGN as trigger to tell the panel to wake up when the IGN is on. There's nothing to "force" to make it work.
if you take the power from lights and the power coming into the box, then you create a direct feedback loop with zero fused connection. also a big no-no. you're the first and only person i know of who carries wire cutters, splitters, wiring, and crimpers in their tool kit... i mean, i just make sure my wiring is good when i install things and never worry about it lol

even when I did my solo Alaska and Arctic Ocean trip and spent 50 days straight on the road and spent most of the time off grid last year, i didn't carry any wiring items. and i'm running a way more complicated electrical system than 99% of the people on the forum. I have one secondary battery system in the cab to power the fridge and starlink and charge my cameras and drone, and another secondary battery system in the bed/ camper to power camper lights, charge my laptop (yes, 12V DC powers my laptop), run the diesel heaters, run aux water pump, and other things. I am also running a pair of Baja Designs S2 for camp lights and 10 rock lights, all of them are powered by the camper battery but triggered through the Switch Pro inside the cab. I am also running 2x 200w solar panels on the roof for when I establish basecamp mode and can divert the panels to charge either house batteries and the starter battery. i carried tools and impact guns, but no wiring things because i do everything right the first time.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I keep these under the back seat. Wire ties, fuses, connectors, cutters, and crimp tool. I keep all my weird and odd tools in my roll and then I have my encased socket sets, tire plugs, etc.
If I was taking a trip to the artic it would be a no brainer. It sounds like you took my dream trip. I plan on going to see some lake effect snow this year. I love snow
My tools are pretty low quality and are just extras I had because something is better than nothing

 

[boogielander]

I keep these under the back seat. Wire ties, fuses, connectors, cutters, and crimp tool. I keep all my weird and odd tools in my roll and then I have my encased socket sets, tire plugs, etc.
If I was taking a trip to the artic it would be a no brainer. It sounds like you took my dream trip. I plan on going to see some lake effect snow this year. I love snow
My tools are pretty low quality and are just extras I had because something is better than nothing

when im solo i take a set of 1/2, a set of 3/8, and a set of 1/4 sockets and ratches and cordless impact guns and wrenches. all the way up until 24mm sae and metric. when i'm with my friend with the 3rd gen cummins he's the tool cart and i'm the tech and the whole group is better off with the two of us leading the trips.
no electrical stuff in our kits because the stuff I wire never goes wrong because i don't use cheap chinesium stuff. for the dual secondary systems I also have redundancies built in with the already top tier stuff I use, so in the very very rare event that something does go wrong nothing will be affected and no trail repair is needed lol

i went in late summer (august and september) because a lot of places are closed when it starts snowing. if you need supplies or food and stuff in places that are only open during touristy seasons you'd be out of luck lol. but generally go in the dead of winter if you want to see snow... and if you're running solo... make sure your truck is 100% ready by doing a lot of test runs beforehand. I can tell you that the biggest enemies will be the coldness and the rough roads. When I went Dempster and Dalton were full of potholes while the Alcan was full of potholes after Whitehorse. People with less capable vehicles or towing were doing like 25mph and struggling trying to dodge the potholes, while I just cruised along doing 65-70mph skipping over every bump dip and whatnot, and passed everyone every chance I get. well, that's because i have expensive suspension that is designed to go fast on rough surface lol


8/31/2024 3:15PM
NWT/ YK border, Dempster Highway
Day after they closed this mountain pass for snow removal.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

I had these for several months now. I really need to get them on soon and then put on my TRX take offs. I didn't want to lift it much so these will level it out.
Those pictures are awesome and I love the blue. I like those wheels as well are they bronze

 

[boogielander]

I had these for several months now. I really need to get them on soon and then put on my TRX take offs. I didn't want to lift it much so these will level it out.
Those pictures are awesome and I love the blue. I like those wheels as well are they bronze

thanks yes they are bronze.
i was going for that subaru STI 22B color scheme from back in the days haha

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

thanks yes they are bronze.
i was going for that subaru STI 22B color scheme from back in the days haha

I may use that photo as my background its that good. $575 was as cheap as I could find the switch pros does that sound like a decent price?
Does it make any sense to try the up fitter switches? I have many fuse boxes and relay compartments I've kept over the years I could use.
I've spent the majority of my life working on 6.0 powerstrokes and BMW in my later years. BMW has AC in the summer
I know nothing mopar, but they all similarly enough to get by one would hope. I'll learn as I go and that's why I'm here
Thank you again for the help

 

[boogielander]

I may use that photo as my background its that good. $575 was as cheap as I could find the switch pros does that sound like a decent price?
Does it make any sense to try the up fitter switches? I have many fuse boxes and relay compartments I've kept over the years I could use.
I've spent the majority of my life working on 6.0 powerstrokes and BMW in my later years. BMW has AC in the summer
I know nothing mopar, but they all similarly enough to get by one would hope. I'll learn as I go and that's why I'm here
Thank you again for the help

yes of course you can.
and yes $575 is a good price. in 2017 i paid $550 lol

if you have the upfitter switches already in the truck then you can do it, but i'd still only use those with relay harnesses instead of direct wire. if not then just leave them off the truck. when i build these things i try to leave OE harnesses alone and build dedicated systems outside of OE harnesses, Ram and Jeep are already not that great with the electrical stuff so i avoid adding on to them.

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

yes of course you can.
and yes $575 is a good price. in 2017 i paid $550 lol

if you have the upfitter switches already in the truck then you can do it, but i'd still only use those with relay harnesses instead of direct wire. if not then just leave them off the truck. when i build these things i try to leave OE harnesses alone and build dedicated systems outside of OE harnesses, Ram and Jeep are already not that great with the electrical stuff so i avoid adding on to the

I'm assuming you like the upfitter idea better than the auxbeam? That's probably a dumb question
I don't have any upfitter switches, but they do seem reasonably priced and would look much better. It does limit me to 6 though
Someone has upfitter switches with harness for sale on here. After reading the scams I'd rather pay more and reduce the chances.
While I have someone's attention (you) what scan tool do you have and what do I need or recommend?
Cheapest is always better unless it costs more later

 

[boogielander]

I'm assuming you like the upfitter idea better than the auxbeam? That's probably a dumb question
I don't have any upfitter switches, but they do seem reasonably priced and would look much better. It does limit me to 6 though
Someone has upfitter switches with harness for sale on here. After reading the scams I'd rather pay more and reduce the chances.
While I have someone's attention (you) what scan tool do you have and what do I need or recommend?
Cheapest is always better unless it costs more later

actually im partial. the upfitter switches themselves are better than auxbeam, but the work involved to get them working is just too much hahaha. but between the two, with swtich pro not being an option, I'd still go with upfitter despite less functions and more work.

for scan tool if you're just doing the normal code pulling then any OBD2 reader will do (we use Launch at the shop). If you want to start programming things (tire size and tire pressure threshold) then:

• Alfaobd (android tablet software... I have a 2020 Samsung Tab A that I used for a few years as my trail navigation and offline map. Now I use an iPad Mini to do that because iPad is much faster and doesn't lag).
• ECRI Security Gateway Module - I think it was the cheapest option when I was buying.
• OBDLink LX Bluetooth Interface - this one does NOT work with iOS, android and windows only

 

[RAM REAPER MAN]

actually im partial. the upfitter switches themselves are better than auxbeam, but the work involved to get them working is just too much hahaha. but between the two, with swtich pro not being an option, I'd still go with upfitter despite less functions and more work.

for scan tool if you're just doing the normal code pulling then any OBD2 reader will do (we use Launch at the shop). If you want to start programming things (tire size and tire pressure threshold) then:

• Alfaobd (android tablet software... I have a 2020 Samsung Tab A that I used for a few years as my trail navigation and offline map. Now I use an iPad Mini to do that because iPad is much faster and doesn't lag).
• ECRI Security Gateway Module - I think it was the cheapest option when I was buying.
• OBDLink LX Bluetooth Interface - this one does NOT work with iOS, android and windows only

Is the difference between to mx and lx just no ios support?
Do I need to get the other ECRI for the obd 2 port or will Alfaobd do that work when I get the SGW you recommended?
You are solving issues faster than I can read about them.
Thank you again!