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That distance is based on the average mpg for a very short recent distance and the amount of fuel left. It doesn't matter if you zero everything at a fillup. I've started my truck at the gas station, zeroed everything, sat idling in the driveway waiting for a gap, accelerated hard out of there...

You'll probably get better responses over at Homepage - HD Rams. This is mostly about the 1500 DT pickups.

I thought that, too.

Yep, check cabin filter first. And see if things are wet. You can also set things up to blow in recirculate with the filter out and spray Lysol in the filter opening. That stinks, too, but different.

Any one of your modules could be failing and shorting out the CAN BUS. That's the network that ties everything together, engine, trans, ABS, dash, pretty much everything. Short the wires together and nothing will talk to anything else. If it were my truck, I would first examine all the battery...

For eTorque, yes. Voltage on the 12v system is wacky. There are numerous threads about it.

These still look good. Actually, they look better now than they did in these pictures. They've smoothed out. Carhartt Seat Covers

Try cleaning the throttle body. As oil vapors and such build up on the throttle plate, it restricts air flow. The computer adjusts to compensate. You might just be in a spot right between steps. It cracks the throttle, but then it's too fast, so it closes a bit and now it's too low. Don't...

2500s and up are over at Homepage - HD Rams

You need one of these https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Pacer-Performance/PP20-702.html

It probably will only take one drive cycle to adjust the base timing. Which is in general terms, a cold start, warm up to operating temperature, some idling, some steady cruising, and a deceleration. It won't rquire anything special on your part.

I'd look for a cracked, plugged, or pinched line to the MAP sensor for that code. The pedal position sensor is probably the one that started it all. It's inside, under the dash, on the pedal. Before you start replacing parts, double check that you didn't leave a ground connection loose on...

I went with a NAPA battery. Just plug that Mopar part number into google, select the shopping tab, and go wth the cheapest. That's what I did.

These are Mods. :LOL: https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/mods-vs-rockers/

Under load could be spark plug, a coil, or even the boot on the coil. I'm surprised it hasn't set off the check engone light and a code yet.

It's normal to light up as a bulb check on startup. It lasts a little longer than you'd want, but as long as it goes out, you're fine.

I always think of this when I read gumbo

We bought this Prime Rib in anticipation of Christmas, but it didn;t get used so it's been taking up a bit of freezer space. So today it spent a few hours on the Weber. It takes a long time to cook 13 lbs of Prime Rib!

I'd say the answer is probably. The difference in diameter between your tires and the stock 275/65R18s is about 3" 1½" on the lower half is no big deal, but adding 1½" up inside the fenders could get a little tight without a lift. Crawl underneath and look for spacers or aftermaret-looking...

I wonder what the figures will be if you use 87 octane and the knock sensor retards the timing? And yes, I know the knock sensor itself doesn't actually do anything but send a signal to the ECU. Get over yourself.